Eric describes in detail his vision for improving the effectiveness of training programs via advances in training & testing technologies, nuanced program design, and genetic testing and epigenetics. This is a fascinating podcast rich with clues for improving the effectiveness of your training, reducing injury risk, pursuing your genetic potential, and for living longer and prospering in the vertical world.
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2:00 – Intro to the future of training for climbing.
5:00- Importance of climbing research and veteran coaching in pointing the way forward.
8:35 – Comments on Adam Ondra’s ascent of “Silence”…the world’s first 5.15d/9c.
18:00 – Overview of past training innovations…campus board, hangboard, etc.
20:35 – Recent innovations…the Treadwall, Moon Board, Lattice Wall, Zlagboard, etc.
24:40 – The need to establish standardize testing of climbing-specific strength, power, endurance….to determine the relative strength of the three bio-energetic systems.
25:10 – My vision for the future of training for climbing—broken into three parts:
29:18 - #1: Stop guessing; start testing. The importance of accurate physiological assessment. Leveraging "big data".
47:05 - #2: Smarter program design--short-term nuance with a good long-term aim. Importance of understanding hormetic stress and cellular signaling to getting the most out of your training investment.
57:00 – #3: Genetic testing and training program design with epigenetics in mind.
1:07:25 – Closing thoughts.
Music: Misty Murphy