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Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

Training and performance podcasts by Eric Hörst, the internationally renowned author, climbing coach, researcher, inventor, and accomplished climber of more than 40 years. Founder of TrainingForClimbing.com and PhysiVāntage. With his unique combination of veteran climbing and coaching experience and knowledge of the latest climbing research, Eric presents practical, effective guidelines to climb harder, reduce injury risk, and maximize the experience of moving over stone. Eric is one of the world's most knowledgeable climbing coaches and his eight books (and many foreign translations) have sold more than 400,000 copies worldwide. His latest book release is the 3rd edition of Training For Climbing. Learn more at: http://www.trainingforclimbing.com
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Now displaying: June, 2022
Jun 14, 2022

Your training is done. You've arrived at the boulders or crags. You're ready to begin work on a project...or perhaps you hope to send your ongoing project. It's at these times that your mindset matters most!

In this episode, Coach Hörst provides insights into how you can foster an optimal mental state to begin work on a new project...or send an ongoing project boulder, sport climbing, or big wall. The optimal mindset is highly distinct and dependent on your goal du jour.  

You'll learn how to quiet your mind with meditation and support your projecting and sending with self-talk. This is powerful information...so lean into this podcast and find some clues for taking your performance to the next level!

RUNDOWN

0:15 - Intro to mental training and mindset optimization for climbing.

2:20 - Brief recall of Podcast #75 on Self-Awareness -- an essential first step to taking control of your mindset.

5:06 - Controlling your thoughts -- harder than you think.

6:14 - Who controls your thinking?

8:46 - Developing a powerful mindset for climbing is a decades-long journey -- begin today!

10:00 - "To outperform the masses, you must do things they don't do!"

11:00 - PART 1 - Your thoughts are powerful!

14:00 - Quiet your mind with meditation.

15:50 - Experience John Gill's "moving meditation."

17:00 - Dealing with racing thoughts.

18:18 - How to meditate. Getting good at it takes practice...ideally daily!

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25:50 - PART 2 - How to build an optimal mindest for projecting and performance.

28:00 - Keep the valence of your self-talk POSITIVE!

29:04 - Be quick to reframe failed attempts or setbacks.

29:45 - "No Big Deal Honnold"! Learn about  beginner- and elite-level reframing. 

31:13 - WARNING: You must embrace the reality of a dire situation!

32:42 - Summary of self-talk techniques - The 4 keys to effective self-talk.

34:05 - Details on effective Self-Talk for Projecting vs. Redpointing

35:28 - Self-Talk techniques for Projecting. Learning is the goal...NOT sending!

41:30 - Ask yourself lots of questions.

46:35 - Mention of The Struggle Podcast -- Listen to 10 pro climber interviews!

46:48 - Developing the Optimal Mindset for Redpointing Your Project!

49:45 - Pre-climb self-talk

52:25 - Self-talk while you climb

55:14 - Mid-route rest self-talking strategy

57:35 - Thoughts to quash with positive self-talk

59:18 - Have a sense of humor in your self-talk

1:01:50 - Summary of 9 common climbing examples of how to reframe dis-empowering thoughts with positive self-talk

1:09:50 - Final tips and comments

PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or elsewhere....and SHARE this podcast with a friend!

*** Support our sponsor! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 ***

View a list of pro climbers who use PhysiVantage to support their training and climbing >>

SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >>

Thank you! La SportivaMaxim RopesDMM ClimbingFriction Labs

Music by Misty Murphy

Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.

Follow Eric on Facebook!

And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

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