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Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

Training and performance podcasts by Eric Hörst, the internationally renowned author, climbing coach, researcher, inventor, and accomplished climber of more than 40 years. Founder of TrainingForClimbing.com and PhysiVāntage. With his unique combination of veteran climbing and coaching experience and knowledge of the latest climbing research, Eric presents practical, effective guidelines to climb harder, reduce injury risk, and maximize the experience of moving over stone. Eric is one of the world's most knowledgeable climbing coaches and his eight books (and many foreign translations) have sold more than 400,000 copies worldwide. His latest book release is the 3rd edition of Training For Climbing. Learn more at: http://www.trainingforclimbing.com
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Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
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Now displaying: April, 2019
Apr 21, 2019

This may be the most important podcast you've heard in a long time...or, perhaps, ever!

If you engage in hard finger training, frequently push your physical limits, and/or occasionally experience tendon or joint pain...then this podcast could be a game-changer for you.

Traditionally, tendons and ligaments (such as the A2 pulleys of the fingers) have been viewed as inert structures that changed little after adolescence. We now know, however, that these connective tissues are dynamic and metabolically active. New studies provide clues as to how athletes can play an active role in developing stronger, more robust, and higher performance connective tissues. This is a revolutionary distinction for hard-training climbers...and it may change the way you train, eat, and recover going forward.

This podcast is the second in a series on sinew training for improved health and enhanced performance. Revisit podcast #33 for an introduction to the topic. Podcasts #34 and #35 will break much new ground on the topic of training for climbing--don't miss them!

RUNDOWN

0:15 – Introduction to this series of 4 podcasts on connective tissue training—this is revolutionary information.

2:07 – Question: What sport is as hard on tendons and ligaments as climbing? Is there one? Perhaps not. Consider that finger flexor tendon pulleys are just 1 to 2 mm thick, yet they have to carry a large percentage of a climber’s body weight.

4:00 – Collagen-based tissues carry the load, from muscle to fingertips, with every hold you grab…every move you make…every lunge you make!

6:30 – The best climber in the world isn’t the best if he’s injured. Injuries, big and small, are setbacks that change your trajectory.

7:35 – New paradigm: Your top priority in training for climbing: Develop stronger tendons, pulleys, and muscle matrix.

8:45 – Sinew have poor blood flow, and therefore may be poorly nourished.

9:30 – Key distinction: collagen breaks down with every intense work. Collagen synthesis takes 72 hours (or more) to remodel the connective tissue.

11:00 – Too much collagen breakdown and too little recovery time between workouts may lead to injury.

11:50 – Sinew gets much of their nutrition from fluid diffusion during mechanical loading (climbing and training). Therefore, consuming Supercharged Collagen 30 to 60 minutes training is the optimal nutritional protocol for supporting collagen synthesis in finger tendons and ligament pulleys.

15:30 – Anything you can do to promote collagen synthesis and connective tissue remodeling is a game-changer for a hard training climber. It’s with this goal in mind that I founded PhysiVantage.

16:30 – Learn about my new brand PhysiVāntage and our flagship product, Supercharged Collagen. This is a totally novel and premium produce.

19:40 – The genesis of PhysiVāntage—almost three years in the making. Here’s the back story.

22:00 – How decreasing collagen turnover after age 30 slows recovery and may increase the risk of injury.

25:50 – Most important amino acids for collagen synthesis are glycine, proline, hydroxyproline—these are hard to come by if you don’t consume a lot of meat.

27:30 – I created Supercharged Collagen to provide climbers with the perfect glycine and proline-rich pre-workout supplements for feeding their sinew the nutrients for optimal collagen synthesis. It’s research-based and athlete-tested.

32:00 – A quick research review. Here are six of the more than a dozen studies that I drew on in developing Supercharged Collagen.

41:20 – 6 questions and answers…

41:45 – Question #1: Will Supercharged Collagen fix my injury? (No, but it may enhance your rehabilitation program and, possibly, accelerate your return to climbing.)

43:20 – Question #2: How much Supercharged collagen should I consume each day? (One to three servings per day, depending on your situation.)

45:15 – Learn the benefits of doing a brief (15 minutes) “protective workout” each morning. This may be the biggest secret to building stronger tendons and ligaments in the long term!

47:40 – Question #3: What usage do I recommend for injured climbers? (First, see a doctor for a correct diagnosis. Second, research indicates that a 15 to 20 gram serving, 30 to 60 minutes before exercise, is ideal for supporting injury rehab.)

49:20 – Question #4: Can I consume Supercharged Collagen post-workout as a protein source for muscles. (Yes! But consuming a high-quality Whey protein is just as good for muscle recovery.)

50:35 – Question #5: Is there a vegan version of Supercharged Collagen? (No, there’s no such thing as vegan hydrolyzed collagen.)

52:08 – Question #6: How long does it take to feel the beneficial effects of Supercharged Collagen? (It’s unlikely you’ll feel much difference in your sinew short-term, however, multiple studies have shown a statistically significant reduction in joint pain from several months of collagen peptide use.)

55:00 – I formed PhysiVantage to my difference-making supplements for passionate climbers who place great demands on their bodies! Visit PhysiVantage.com and save 15% off non-sale items with the code “podcast15” at checkout.

56:40 – Info on three great events I’ll be appearing at this summer. Then 26th annual International Climbers Festival in Lander, WY (July 10 – 14, 2019). The Canada Strong Climbing coaches conference (August 6 – 9, 2019). Climbing Medicine Canada (August 12 – 14, 2019) in Squamish, BC.

59:25 – If you enjoyed this podcast—please SHARE it with your friends and on your social media, and consider writing a review on iTunes.

Get 15% off at PhysiVantage.com with the discount code PODCAST15 at checkout.

Instagram - @PhysiVantage

Facebook - @PhysiVantage

For a comprehensive study of Training for Climbing, check out the 3rd edition of Hörst's best-selling book!

Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.

Follow Eric on Facebook!

Music by: Misty Murphy

  • Subscribe on iTunes (or other podcast player) to "Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing" podcast. You can also listen to the T4C podcast on Stitcher and  Spotify! Please write a review on iTunes!
Apr 1, 2019

Get ready for some breakthrough research-based information that, I believe, is revolutionary for hard-training climbers!

The topic is sinew training—that is, new training and nutritional interventions shown to promote tendon, ligament, and muscle matrix strength and health. We all know how hard climbing (and training) is on the flexor tendons and ligament pulleys of the fingers, as well as the elbows and shoulders; so what could be more valuable to climbers than strategies to improve sinew health, strength, and performance?

This is an information-rich podcast that might require a couple of listens...to determine how you can best apply and benefit from this new material. The next three podcasts will expand on this topic with details on specific training interventions for strengthening (and rehabbing) sore or tweaked tendons and pulleys. If you are a proactive, early adapter kind of person, then this is cutting-edge information I'm sure you'll be all over...like chalk on a crux hold!

A final note: If you enjoy this podcast, then please share it with a friend, post to social media, or write a review. Thank you!

Rundown

1:00 – Introduction to a new series of podcasts on sinew training—how to develop stronger, stiffer, healthier tendons and ligaments. This is the first of four episodes in the series…breaking new ground that I feel is revolutionary for climbers.

3:00 – Tendons and ligaments are not inert—they change and adapt to training in adulthood, but at a much slower rate than muscles do. And, sinew training requires unique training modalities and nutritional interventions. PhysiVāntage

5:20 – A quick rundown of the next 3 episodes in this series….and the exciting ground I’ll be covering.

7:00 – Eric gives a brief introduction of himself and his background for new listeners. Additional comments of recent advances in training for climbing.

10:10 – A reflection on last year’s series of podcasts on Energy System Training—powerful material for intermediate, advanced, and elite climbers. If you haven’t already, listen to these podcasts! # ???

13:00 – Introduction to sinew training…and the exciting new sport science I’m bringing to the climbing world in this series of podcasts.

15:30 – The importance of training to avoid injury and stay healthy, so that you can reach your goals! There’s a huge cost to injuries…lost seasons, missed competitions, setbacks and lost seasons.

20:00 – There are decades of knowledge gathered and distributed on muscle training and adaptations…but until recently there’s little research and scant instruction on sinew training.

23:00 – The importance of staying curious! Embracing and applying the latest research is key to progress and breakthroughs in most complex fields/endeavors.

28:00 – Three findings of my two years of research into sinew health and sinew training.

28:30 – Finding #1: Sinew is plastic. Tendons, ligaments, and extracellular muscle matrix change, adapt, and remodel very slowly…and you can play a role in this process!

34:00 – Distinct training and nutritional interventions do influence sinew health, strength, and performance.

35:00 – Finding #2: Tendons can hypertrophy. In certain situations, chronic mechanical loading can lead to slightly hypertrophy over years of exercise. Research has documented that the finger flexor tendons of veteran climbers are up to 50% thicker than non-climbers.

39:00 – Hypertrophy results from long-term training stimulus that slightly degrades collagen…followed by a rise in collagen synthesis during a recovery period of 48 to 72 hours. This cyclic process will gradually build stronger connective tissues given appropriate mechanical loading and rest periods. Nutrition plays an important role in the process, too—more on this in a bit!

41:35 – Sinew has poor blood flow compared to muscles…and there’s scant blood flow to sinew after training.

44:45 – Homeostasis perturbation from long-term overtraining (under-resting and perhaps poor nutrition) leads to disorganized and damaged collagen fibrils…that may be the root cause of the sudden “surprise” finger pulley tweak or onset of painful tendons in the elbows and shoulders.

48:15 – Finding #3: There is a proven nutritional intervention that increases collagen synthesis in connective tissues…and can support sinew recovery and strengthening. Research by Keith Baar and Greg Shaw has shown a doubling of collagen synthesis with vitamin C enriched hydrolyzed collagen consumed 30 to 60 minutes before exercise.

55:30 – Why nutrients consumed after exercise aren’t as effective for nourishing tendons. Synovial fluid diffusion during mechanical loading is the primary method of nourishment to sinew—thus, consuming a glycine and proline rich food before training is the best method of “feeding” sinew.

59:20 – My morning ritual for optimally feeding the tendon and ligaments of my fingers, arms and shoulders—15 minutes to stronger tendons. Supercharged Collagen works!

1:03:00 – You are playing a role in your tendon health…every day! Cease the opportunity to play an active role in the process.

1:04:10 – Introducing PhysiVāntage!  Our flagship product is Supercharged Collagen. Based on the research of Drs. Baar and Shaw, this is the most advanced tendon and ligament support supplement on the market. Use it daily to get a PhysiVantage!

Get 10% off at PhysiVantage.com with the discount code SAVE10 at checkout.

Instagram - @PhysiVantage

Facebook - @PhysiVantage

For a comprehensive study of Training for Climbing, check out the 3rd edition of Hörst's best-selling book!

Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.

Follow Eric on Facebook!

Music by: Misty Murphy

Subscribe on iTunes (or other podcast player) to "Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing" podcast. You can also listen to the T4C podcast on Stitcher and  Spotify! Please write a review on iTunes!

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