In terms of physical attributes, increasing relative peak finger force is central to taking your climbing to the next level—think of this as the finger force you can apply to a rock hold in relation to the body mass the fingers must support. Improving this finger strength-to-weight ratio is possible by increasing the numerator (greater finger strength) and decreasing the denominator (lowering body mass).
While there are many different fingerboard training methods/protocols/programs (some good, some bad) in the public domain, this podcasts will present four evidence-based protocols that work. Experienced climbers, with no recent history of injury to the fingers/elbows/shoulders, can employ one of these maximum-grip-strength protocols on a twice-a-week basis as supplement to time spent climbing. Aggregate number of climbing and finger training days per week must not exceed four—resting the fingers a minimum of three days per week is essential for neuromuscular recovery and finger tendon remodeling. Break this rule and you’ll likely end up “broken”….in one way or another.
1:14 - Review of 5 reasons why stronger fingers are central to taking your climbing to the next level
4:24 - Intro to maximum finger strength training on a hangboard
4:50 - Importance of "Relative Peak Finger Force"
10:10 - 3 Hangboard training modalities
13:33 - Training protocol 1: "Minimum Edge"
19:14 - Training protocol 2: "Maximum Weight 10-second Hangs"
25:20 - Training protocol 3: "7-53 Weight Hangs"
32:00 - Training protocol 4: "7/3 Repeaters"
41:00 - How to fingerboard with good technique...to protect & strengthen your shoulders.
45:05 - Hangboard training program design - How to integrate your with your other workouts and performance climbing.
53:00 - Closing comments
Music: Misty Murphy
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