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Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

Training and performance podcasts by Eric Hörst, the internationally renowned author, climbing coach, researcher, inventor, and accomplished climber of more than 40 years. Founder of TrainingForClimbing.com and PhysiVāntage. With his unique combination of veteran climbing and coaching experience and knowledge of the latest climbing research, Eric presents practical, effective guidelines to climb harder, reduce injury risk, and maximize the experience of moving over stone. Eric is one of the world's most knowledgeable climbing coaches and his eight books (and many foreign translations) have sold more than 400,000 copies worldwide. His latest book release is the 3rd edition of Training For Climbing. Learn more at: http://www.trainingforclimbing.com
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Now displaying: November, 2021
Nov 3, 2021

I've got something different for you in this episode...which I hope that you'll find revealing, instructive, and extremely beneficial. I will take you through the process of working my mini-project during a recent trip to Germany. I'll share with you my thoughts, wide-ranging emotions, and problem-solving techniques in sussing out the beta, challenging my physical limitations (and fears), and going for the send on my final climbing day of the trip.

I trust you'll find some techniques and tactics to adopt and adapt  to improve your boulder or route projecting.

RUNDOWN

0:30 - And now for something completely different -- I hope you love this podcast!  

6:18 - Deconstructing a project route: HERCULES (5.13a/7c+) Learn about my 3-session journey of sussing beta, managing fears, and developing a strategy for the send.

13:40 - Session 1: Sussing out the project.

15:40 - Session 2: Getting down to business...

16:20 - Address fears first. Working the first of 4 "chucks"....the unpleasant slab start.

22:52 - Working Chuck #2 - power climbing out a 25-foot overhanging wall and roof. Move by move beta is refined for efficiency and power conservation.

32:20 - Pro Tip: Taking "mental snapshots" of key holds.

34:25 - Dismissing phantom fears...

37:48 - Working chuck #3...the redpoint crux.

41:10 - Dialing in chuck #4...the anchor run.

44:00 - Time for two redpoint goes. So close! (Or, was I?)

50:40 - Message from the podcast sponsor PhysiVantage Nutrition. Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15

52:00 - HERCULES on my mind...for days! Visualization and game-changing beta ideas. 

57:27 - Session 3 - Mother Nature provides a chance...but could Eric take down Hercules?

1:05:10 - Blow-by-blow commentary of the redpoint go -- a look inside the mind of Coach Horst.

1:12:00 - Closing comments. PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!

SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15

SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >>

Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing.

Music by Misty Murphy

Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.

Follow Eric on Facebook!

And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

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