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Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

Training and performance podcasts by Eric Hörst, the internationally renowned author, climbing coach, researcher, inventor, and accomplished climber of more than 40 years. Founder of TrainingForClimbing.com and PhysiVāntage. With his unique combination of veteran climbing and coaching experience and knowledge of the latest climbing research, Eric presents practical, effective guidelines to climb harder, reduce injury risk, and maximize the experience of moving over stone. Eric is one of the world's most knowledgeable climbing coaches and his eight books (and many foreign translations) have sold more than 400,000 copies worldwide. His latest book release is the 3rd edition of Training For Climbing. Learn more at: http://www.trainingforclimbing.com
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Now displaying: October, 2019
Oct 8, 2019

In a departure from my usual lecture style podcasts, I'm happy to feature a guest on this month's podcast--Dr. Tyler Nelson, a chiropractic physician and owner of Camp 4 Human Performance in Salt Lake City. This is my first podcast interview in about a decade--I believe my last audio interview was with Alex Honnold soon after his free solo of Half Dome (2008). Maybe some day I'll dig out that podcast from the audio vault and post it here! But I digress.

The focus of this podcast is Blood Flow Restriction (BFR) training. This training modality has been around for decades, but has only been recently popularized by some physiotherapists and coaches. Among climbers, perhaps no one is more knowledgable on this topic than Dr. Nelson. In this 40-minute interview we'll explore the different BFR training protocols, and how BFR training may be a beneficial intervention for injured and healthy climbers alike.

SUMMARY

  • History of BFR and introduction into training in the USA.
  • The difference between "passive" and "active" BFR.
  • Ischemic preconditioning with passive BFR--complete arterial occlusion for up to 5 minutes with no exercise or loading.
  • Keys for effective active BFR with intermittent loading:
  • 40% to 80% of arterial occlusion pressure--or a subjective cuff tightness of 7 out of 10.
  • Resistance/loading of 20% to 40% of 1RM.
  • Protocol: 30 reps with first set, then 3 more sets of 15 reps with 30 seconds of rest between each set.
  • Perform 3 or 4 exercises per BFR session with 30 to 60 seconds between exercises. Fatigue larger muscles first, then smaller muscles.
  • Use BFR once or twice per week as an adjunct to regular training (for healthy climbers); or do up to 6 days per week, alternating upper-body and lower-body days, in the case of rehab from injury.

BFR RESEARCH PAPERS:

ABOUT PHYSIVANTAGE:

  • I formed PhysiVantage to make research-based, athlete-tested performance nutrition for passionate climbers who place great demands on their bodies! Visit PhysiVantage.com and save 10% off non-sale items with the code “save10” at checkout.
  • Need more Power Endurance? Want faster recovery between boulders or at mid-route rests? Try out the research-based Endure X pre-workout/pre-performance drink mix.

Check out Eric’s TRAINING FOR CLIMBING YouTube channel.

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For a comprehensive study of Training for Climbing, check out the 3rd edition of Hörst's best-selling book!

Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

Music by: Misty Murphy

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