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Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

Training and performance podcasts by Eric Hörst, the internationally renowned author, climbing coach, researcher, inventor, and accomplished climber of more than 40 years. Founder of TrainingForClimbing.com and PhysiVāntage. With his unique combination of veteran climbing and coaching experience and knowledge of the latest climbing research, Eric presents practical, effective guidelines to climb harder, reduce injury risk, and maximize the experience of moving over stone. Eric is one of the world's most knowledgeable climbing coaches and his eight books (and many foreign translations) have sold more than 400,000 copies worldwide. His latest book release is the 3rd edition of Training For Climbing. Learn more at: http://www.trainingforclimbing.com
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Now displaying: February, 2017
Feb 2, 2017

While climbing is, first and foremost, a mental and technical skill sport, long-term improvement—and pursuing your genetic potential—demands getting stronger in a number of climbing specific ways. Numerous research studies have confirmed that elite climbers, compared with non-elites, have higher grip-strength-to-mass ratio, greater forearm endurance, and a higher rate of force development in the finger flexors. Therefore, assuming that you have solid technical and mental skills, training for stronger fingers is paramount to taking your climbing to the next level. In this episode you'll learn 5 reason why strong fingers matter--this will set the stage for the next podcast which will cover effective fingerboard training techniques.

0:15 - Intro
1:00 - Research on Finger Strength of Elite Climbers

1:42 - Reason #1 Why Strong Fingers Matter - They Can Grip Smaller Holds

3:00 - #2: Stronger Fingers Can Endure Longer

9:10 - About Zlagboard

11:55 - #3: Strong Finger Can Rest on Smaller Holds

15:25 - #4: Strong Fingers Have More Stamina

18:15 - #5: Strong Fingers Make Climbing More Fun!

18:50 - Summary

20:10 - Closing Comments

Tune in next month for detailed coverage of effective fingerboard training for stronger fingers!

Music: Misty Murphy

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