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Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

Training and performance podcasts by Eric Hörst, the internationally renowned author, climbing coach, researcher, inventor, and accomplished climber of more than 40 years. Founder of TrainingForClimbing.com and PhysiVāntage. With his unique combination of veteran climbing and coaching experience and knowledge of the latest climbing research, Eric presents practical, effective guidelines to climb harder, reduce injury risk, and maximize the experience of moving over stone. Eric is one of the world's most knowledgeable climbing coaches and his eight books (and many foreign translations) have sold more than 400,000 copies worldwide. His latest book release is the 3rd edition of Training For Climbing. Learn more at: http://www.trainingforclimbing.com
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Now displaying: April, 2022
Apr 1, 2022

In this Part 2 in the series, 40 Ways to Improve Your Training and Climbing, Coach Hörst provides 20 tips for advanced and elite-level climbers. Discover how to employ a more nuanced and holistic approach to training and performance -- essential for eeking out further gains for high-level climbers with many years of experience. 

RUNDOWN

0:30 - Eric's Welcome!

4:04 - Intro to Advanced Climber Tips

6:06 - #1. Strive for a greater nuance of actions taken on and off the rock. 

8:02 - #2. Become a true master of rock -- seek to elevate weaknesses...physical, mental, technical.

10:15 - #3. Re-evaluate (and switch up) your finger training.

13:30 - #4. MORE CORE! Learn what to do more/less of.

17:02 - #5. Seek to build a more robust, balanced, and injury-resistant physique.

19:40 - #6. Consider an occasional period of specialization.

23:00 - #7. Create a "seasonality" of your training/climbing system.

25:20 - #8. Employ brief periods of "overreach" training followed by a shorter spell of deload.

28:40 - #9. Clean up your diet and strive to fill in any nutrient shortcomings -- adequate protein consumption is important, but also be sure you're getting the necessary minerals to support muscle function (electrolytes and, in particular, magnesium). Learn how Magnesium supports ATP production here >>

32:30 - #10. Always have fun! Climbing is NOT your job....yet!

34:15 - Intro to Elite-Level Training and Performance

36:00 - #1. Develop a deep, long-term relationship with a coach...or seek out a veteran pro climber to be your mentor.

38:40 - #2. Attack lingering weaknesses...physical, mental, technical.

39:30 - Pro Tip...on the importance of training for a lower resting heart rate

41:40 - #3. Build a stronger cardiovascular system to power longer days of training/climbing, and to speed recovery between exercises, climbs, and workouts.

44:10 - #4. Engage in year-round climbing-specific training -- at least one session per week!

49:02 - #5. Commit to comprehensive core training -- high-level athletic achievement demands exceptional core strength and strength-endurance.

50:12 - #6. Design occasional project-specific training exercises and sessions.

52:38 - #7. Occasionally engage in outdoor climbing styles that are outside your wheelhouse.

54:20 - #8. Embark on a relentless journey to achieve higher efficiency in even the smallest aspects of climbing performance.

58:10 - #9. Be willing to sacrifice greatly. Learn more in this podcast "The 8 Superpowers of the Very Best Climbers" >>

1:01:45 - #10. Elevate your character, and seek a higher level of spiritual awareness and engagement with your surroundings. Believe in your mission!

1:06:20 - Summary comments.

1:07:00 - Support our sponsors, visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15

View a list of pro climbers who use PhysiVantage to support their training and climbing >>

PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or elsewhere....and SHARE this podcast with a friend!

SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >>

Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs

Music by Misty Murphy

Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.

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And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

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