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Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

Training and performance podcasts by Eric Hörst, the internationally renowned author, climbing coach, researcher, inventor, and accomplished climber of more than 40 years. Founder of TrainingForClimbing.com and PhysiVāntage. With his unique combination of veteran climbing and coaching experience and knowledge of the latest climbing research, Eric presents practical, effective guidelines to climb harder, reduce injury risk, and maximize the experience of moving over stone. Eric is one of the world's most knowledgeable climbing coaches and his eight books (and many foreign translations) have sold more than 400,000 copies worldwide. His latest book release is the 3rd edition of Training For Climbing. Learn more at: http://www.trainingforclimbing.com
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Now displaying: December, 2018
Dec 7, 2018

This episode provides critical framework and guidelines for effective hangboard training. Based on 30+ years of hangboard training experience--and the latest research--you'll learn the importance of a proper warm up, why you must train different finger grip positions, how to maintain forearm muscle balance and lower injury risk, as well as valuable tips on organizing your hangboard training for optimal results and continued gains in the long-term!

Rundown

0:22 - Introduction

2:00 - Detailed description of the new ULTIMATE BOARD, designed by Hörst and manufactured by Nicros. Purchase here >>

11:20 - Who should hangboard train? Guidelines for beginner, intermediate, advanced, and elite climbers.

17:30 - The value of hangboard training for intermittent year-round...and the importance of finding your "best" personalized program.

18:45 - Get compliant! Learn the "120-move" rule for warming up.

24:45 - Why elite level climbers need to do some two-a-day workouts.

25:55 - Beginner guidelines. To hang or not to hang?

26:35 - How proper training (and rest) can make your tendons stronger, stiffer, and slightly thicker given long-term, prudent hangboard training.

27:10 - Which grip positions you should train? How grip position effects forces placed on the flexor tendons and pulleys. Important stuff!

30:00 - Biomechanics of the full crimp grip.

31:12 - Biomechanics of the open-hand grip.

32:18 - What about the "open-crimp" grip?

34:15 - Importance of targeting a specific grip position.

35:50 - Research findings on the forces places on the FDP and FDS flexor tendons with different grip positions.

40:50 - Forces placed on A2 and A4 pulleys...and how to train around a minor annular pulley injury.

42:32 - Finger extensor muscle imbalances...and how to train to combat them.

48:45 - Pinch grip training--Eric's "two birds with one stone" training recommendation.

51:08 - Why every serious climbing much do two brief antagonist exercise sessions per week.

51:55 - Reminder that specific hangboard training protocols are detailed in Podcast #10.

54:08 - Tips on exercise programming.

55:50 - Tips for advanced climbers.

57:00 - Elite climber advice: The importance of doing periods of high volume training for Central Governor recalibration--one of the keys to breaking new performance barriers! Learn more on this in my book, Training for Climbing.

59:30 - Keys to long-term gains over decades. Yes, you can do it with dedicated & smart training--if you stay uninjured!

1:00:35 - Teaser on the next few podcasts...which will break some new ground. Don't miss them!

1:01:40 - Closing comments about the transcending spirit of climbing...and Eric's good wishes to you for the holidays and New Year!

If you enjoy this podcast, PLEASE SHARE it with your friends via Social Media or an embed on your climbing blog. Thank you!

Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

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Music by: Misty Murphy

Subscribe on iTunes (or other podcast player) to "Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing" podcast. You can also listen to the T4C podcast on Spotify! Please write a review on iTunes!

Photo: Training on the Ultimate Board, available from NICROS.com

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