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Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

Training and performance podcasts by Eric Hörst, the internationally renowned author, climbing coach, researcher, inventor, and accomplished climber of more than 40 years. Founder of TrainingForClimbing.com and PhysiVāntage. With his unique combination of veteran climbing and coaching experience and knowledge of the latest climbing research, Eric presents practical, effective guidelines to climb harder, reduce injury risk, and maximize the experience of moving over stone. Eric is one of the world's most knowledgeable climbing coaches and his eight books (and many foreign translations) have sold more than 400,000 copies worldwide. His latest book release is the 3rd edition of Training For Climbing. Learn more at: http://www.trainingforclimbing.com
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Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
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Now displaying: September, 2017
Sep 16, 2017

Eric describes in detail his vision for improving the effectiveness of training programs via advances in training & testing technologies, nuanced program design, and genetic testing and epigenetics. This is a fascinating podcast rich with clues for improving the effectiveness of your training, reducing injury risk, pursuing your genetic potential, and for living longer and prospering in the vertical world.

If you enjoy this podcast, please share it with your climbing friends via social media....and consider writing a review in iTunes. You can support this podcast by purchasing a book(s) at www.TrainingForClimbing.com. Thank you, and enjoy!

Podcast Rundown

2:00 – Intro to the future of training for climbing.

5:00- Importance of climbing research and veteran coaching in pointing the way forward.

8:35 – Comments on Adam Ondra’s ascent of “Silence”…the world’s first 5.15d/9c.

18:00 – Overview of past training innovations…campus board, hangboard, etc.

20:35 – Recent innovations…the Treadwall, Moon Board, Lattice Wall, Zlagboard, etc.

24:40 – The need to establish standardize testing of climbing-specific strength, power, endurance….to determine the relative strength of the three bio-energetic systems.

25:10 – My vision for the future of training for climbing—broken into three parts:

29:18 - #1: Stop guessing; start testing. The importance of accurate physiological assessment. Leveraging "big data".

47:05 - #2: Smarter program design--short-term nuance with a good long-term aim. Importance of understanding hormetic stress and cellular signaling to getting the most out of your training investment.

57:00 – #3: Genetic testing and training program design with epigenetics in mind.

1:07:25 – Closing thoughts.

Music: Misty Murphy

 

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