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Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

Training and performance podcasts by Eric Hörst, the internationally renowned author, climbing coach, researcher, inventor, and accomplished climber of more than 40 years. Founder of TrainingForClimbing.com and PhysiVāntage. With his unique combination of veteran climbing and coaching experience and knowledge of the latest climbing research, Eric presents practical, effective guidelines to climb harder, reduce injury risk, and maximize the experience of moving over stone. Eric is one of the world's most knowledgeable climbing coaches and his eight books (and many foreign translations) have sold more than 400,000 copies worldwide. His latest book release is the 3rd edition of Training For Climbing. Learn more at: http://www.trainingforclimbing.com
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Now displaying: 2021
Jul 17, 2021

This information-packed episode features Steven Dimmitt of the Nugget podcast interviewing Coach Hörst on all things training. This wide-ranging Q & A covers many vital topics including: how to train for stronger tendons and ligaments, the secrets to developing a really strong core, the benefits of campus training versus hangboard training, personalized training program design, and much more! There's a gold mine of information in this episode....and Part 2 of this interview will serve up even more! Coming soon...

Podcast Rundown

00:12 - Intro to this "best of" the Nugget interview with coach Eric Hörst

2:56 - What core elements of training have passed the test of time?

6:23 - Current glut of training information can be overwhelming--what to do?

8:37 - Importance of re-inventing your training each year.

10:07 - Value of engaging an expert coach.

12:25 - What's the most central exercise/activity for climbers?

14:30 - You can improve technical, movement and mental skills for decades!

17:00 - You can improve at climbing for DECADES!

18:25 - You are likely already strong enough to climb the next grade!

19:56 - What should you look for in hiring a coach?

25:50 - New training concept: Sinew Training! Learn the importance of remodeling connective tissues. Visit T4C podcasts #33, #34, #36, and #39 for an in-depth study of this powerful topic.

30:00 - Learn how max finger hangs and campusing training have profoundly different effects on tendons and ligaments.

34:00 - Learn the difference between sinew training for tendon/ligament health versus training for peak power and performance.

35:10 - How to schedule these two types of training for optimal health and results.

36:30 - Learn training cycles and periodization. Linear versus non-linear.

44:40 - Importance of developing a truly personalized approach to training (the "snowflake principle").

46:00 - Identify your limiting constraint. For some strong climbers it's "end-range" strength.

50:15 - How designing an advance training program is like playing 3D chess. Why the best coaches see the big picture and coach the "person" not just the athlete.

51:00 - Don't fall into the trap of obsessing on one type of training or one modality.

54:25 - Why developing a stronger core is SO VERY important. (Hint: A stronger core equals stronger fingers!)

56:30 - Eric comments about Alex Megos' coaches Patrick & Dicki

59:00 - Learn about deadlifting for climbers...the value...and the potential pitfalls.

1:06:30 - The value of doing more bouldering and traversing with very small footholds.

1:11:10 - Key idea: A weak core overcharges your finger force...resulting in rapid fatigue on near-limit climbs.

1:14:10 - More on DUP training versus a 10-week (or more) training cycle.

1:16:30 - Wrap up comments...and a few words about the podcast sponsor PhysiVantage Nutrition.

Tune in to T4C podcast #64 for PART 2 of this Nugget Interview with coach Hörst!

SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Save 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code PODCAST15 PhyiVantage is used by dozens of pro climbers and thousands of recreational climbers around the world. Give PhysiVantage a try, and feel the difference it makes in your climbing!

SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >>

Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing.

Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.

Follow Eric on Facebook!

And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15

Jun 7, 2021

Nothing is more elemental to climbing than fear. Fear of falling, fear of getting hurt or dying, fear of failure, fear of embarrassment, and even the fear of the unknown affects us all from time to time. 

The long-term goal is NOT to eliminate fear, but rather to become an expert fear manager....which is the focus of this (and the next) podcast. Listen in and learn how to assess your fears, manage risk, and take your climbing to the next level with a higher level of mental mastery.

Podcast Rundown

0:30 - Introduction to this two-part study of fear.

4:45 - A few comments on recent events...

5:00 - World Cup Bouldering Gold for Team USA!

7:00 - My son Cameron sending his first 5.15a, Bone Tomahawk.

10:10 - My appearance on The Nugget Climbing podcast.

11:50 - Overview of FEAR...and what you'll learn in this podcast and the next.

12:28 - What are some of your recent climbing fears? Can you identify a few that were especially acute...or fears that held you back in some way?

14:55 - FEAR #1: Fear of Falling

19:12 - Technique 1: Determine if the fear is reasonable or unreasonable.

25:30 - Technique 2: Take some practice falls in a safe setting

32:54 - Technique 3: Change your interpretation of the fear response.

38:28 - Technique 4: Use positive self-talk to crowd out negative thoughts...and you breath-control to moderate tension and the stress response.

45:10  - FEAR #2 - Fear of Dying or Getting Hurt

49:40 - Technique 1: Is the fear you're experiencing legit or imaginary?

52:24 - Technique 2: Use risk management to shift the odds in your favor...and perhaps continue up the climb safely. Here are FIVE strategies for doing this: 

52:52 - 1.) Proactively manage the most obvious dangers.

55:55 - 2.) Consider various "what if" scenarios...and how you will react in each situation.

57:37 - 3.) Constantly discern between "safe fall" and "no fall" situations.

1:01:15 - 4.) Determine if you can handle the worst-case outcome???

1:06:55 - 5.) Listen to your gut instinct when the risk is incalculable. 

1:13:00 - Wrap up comments...and a few words about the podcast sponsor PhysiVantage Nutrition.

SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Save 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code PODCAST15 PhyiVantage is used by dozens of pro climbers and thousands of recreational climbers around the world. Give PhysiVantage a try, and feel the difference it makes in your climbing!

SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >>

Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing.

Music by Misty Murphy

Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.

Follow Eric on Facebook!

And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15

May 6, 2021

Training to get stronger is good. Learning to climb more efficiently so that you can get the most out of the strength and power you currently possess is SMART!

So if you want to progress from good to great, then this podcast is for you! Learn 5 powerful strategies for climbing more efficiently, recovering more quickly, and leveling up your climbing.

Podcast Rundown

0:15 - Roll up your sleeve to receive the Horst booster of Training For Climbing knowledge!

1:55 - Intro to becoming a more efficient climber with more endurance on steep terrain.

4:00 - Key point: When climbing near your limit, little things can make a BIG difference! Eric's favor word in coaching: "nuance"!

4:47 - Improvement demands change. Welcome it.

5:35 - 5 strategies for slowing down the pump clock, improving endurance, and leveling up!

6:34 - Strategy #1: Strive to climb with more economy. Make it a goal to improve a bit each your. Practice new techniques...with a never-ending desire to learn and improve.

9:00 - Key point: Importance of reducing time under tension while grip near-limit holds.

12:38 Exploit Eric's bi-modal approach to climbing steep, strenuous boulders and routes.

13:25 - When able, vary grip position throughout longer climbs.

16:17 - Climb more with hip turns, drop knees, back steps, and twist locks. On steep, difficult routes, try to void long sequences of "neutral" climbing.

20:43 - Strategy #2: Begin "micro resting" between hand grips on hard sequences. Encourage blood flow and maximize use of the aerobic energy system...so as to slow the drain of the finite  anaerobic reserve.

25:15 - Strategy #3: Try to find a "thank God" rest on every hard route. Be creative. Experiment. Practice. Win more often...and punt less!

31:31 - Strategy #4: Use the "G-tox" recovery technique at rest positions on difficult routes. This will aid faster recovery compared with the standard dangling-arm shakeout.

38:00 - Strategy #5: Consume foods and supplements with nitrates...and other ingredients that improve circulation and enhance use of the oxidative energy system. Read more about Endure X here >>

46:50 - Summary of tips and strategies for improving your endurance and climbing harder!

SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Save $10 on your FIRST PhysiVantage Nutrition purchase of $40+ with checkout code: 10DOLLARS. Used by a growing number of pro climbers and thousands of recreational climbers around the world. Give PhysiVantage a try, and feel the difference it makes in your climbing!

RETURNING CUSTOMERS: Save 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code PODCAST15

SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >>

Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing.

Music by Misty Murphy

Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.

Follow Eric on Facebook!

And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15

Apr 1, 2021

Learn 8 things to "get right" in order to climb your very best...and to help create more of those wonderful low-gravity send days!

Coach Hörst provides powerful tips for priming your body for peak performance in the days leading up to your weekend climbing. He also gives valuable game-day master tips for optimizing your performance and accelerating recover at the boulders and crags.

SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Save $10 on your FIRST PhysiVantage Nutrition purchase of $40+ with checkout code: 10DOLLARS

RETURNING CUSTOMERS: Save 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code FRIENDS15

Podcast Rundown

3:40 - First, a few comments about the importance of reducing emotional "weight".

4:35 - Tip #1: Arrive at the boulders or cliff truly 100% fresh -- a rare thing among enthusiastic, hard-training climbers. Learn how to do it!

8:30 - Tip #2: Get your sleep and nutrition right both in the days leading up to your climbing...and while on climbing weekends or trips.

17:20 - Tip #3: Engage in a proper warm-up before every climbing day. Learn what things you should do...and how long it should take.

23:40 - Tip #4: Make the most of your day-one freshness and stoke. Should you invest your time and energy into onsight and flash climbing, or projecting? How much should you save of yourself for day two?

28:45 - Tip #5: Strive to "master" a boulder or route...not just thrash through and survive it. This is a rich topic that Eric drills deeply into...with many tips for climbing more efficiently and channeling your inner Ondra!

40:50 - Tip #6: Rest optimally between routes. Learn how long to rest between goes on your project boulder or route...and how you can accelerate recovery.

46:05 - Tip #7: Learn how to breathe more effectively. Yes, proper breathing (and brief breath-holding) is important!

53:53 - Tip #8: Eat and drink the right things and in the right amounts. Small things can make a massive different in your energy and climbing outcomes--this includes the things you eat and drink!

1:00:00 - BONUS TIP: Love climbing unconditionally! Enjoy each moment that you are on the rock. Let go of both past failures and thoughts of potential future outcomes. Trust the process! Let the send evolve organically...when it's meant to be.

PLEASE write a 5-star iTunes review of the T4C podcast, and consider sharing this podcast with a friend and on your social media. Thank you!

SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Save $10 on a PhysiVantage performance Nutrition purchase of $40+ with checkout code: 10DOLLARS. Used by a growing number of pro climbers and thousands of recreational climbers around the world. Give PhysiVantage a try, and feel the difference it makes in your climbing!

SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >>

Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing.

Music by Misty Murphy

Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.

Follow Eric on Facebook!

And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15

Mar 4, 2021

There are myriad exercises, activities, and sports that climbers engage in with the belief it will elevate climbing performance. For the typical climber, however, most of the climbing-performance benefits come from just a handful of exercises and activities that they do.

Consider, dear listener, everything you do in the name of training--how beneficial is each activity and exercise?

In this podcast, Eric discusses common training tangents, traps, and energy sinks, and he details 10 time-tested exercises/activities that are central to effective training for climbing.

SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Save $10 on your FIRST PhysiVantage Nutrition purchase of $40+ with checkout code: 10DOLLARS

RETURNING CUSTOMERS: Save 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code FRIENDS15

Podcast Rundown

4:10 - Opening comments about effective training for climbing.

4:45 - Importance of keeping an open mind about your training.

6:42 - Mention of the 8 Superpowers of the very best climbers -- go back and listen to podcast #37!

9:00 - Intro to 4 training tangents, traps, and energy sinks that rob you of time and energy...and dilute the quality of your training for climbing.

10:06 - You CAN achieve greater things than you can imagine today!

10:40 - #1 Training Tangent: Focusing on exercises and activities that create fatigue and consume time, but do little to really enhance climbing performance.

15:44 - #2 Training Tangent: Blindly copying another climber's workouts and training program.

17:22 - #3 Training Tangents: The shiny, new object at the gym...that is fun, engaging, and possibly high-tech...that consumes a lot of your focus and time but provides small (or negligible) performance gains given.

20:30 - Comments about the benefits of Auto-Regulation. Listen to podcast #20 for more coverage of Auto-Regulation.

25:00 - Comments on Blood Flow Restriction training - learn more in podcast #40.

28:00 - #4 Training Tangent: Constantly changing up your training...never sticking to a program for a month to be able to accurately gauge the results.

30:30 - Eric coaches you to "Plan your workout, then work your plan!"

32:45 - Please check out our podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage Nutrition. Save $10 or 15% on your online order! PhysiVantage is used by many of America's top boulders, sport climbers, and big wall crushers!

35:08 - 10 time-tested, back-to-basics exercises and activities that are central to effective training for climbing.

37:24 - #1: Climb frequently!

39:30 - #2: Hangboard train!

44:15 - #3: Weighted Pull-ups

45:35 - #4: Frenchies

48:08 - #5: Bouldering and System Wall climbing

50:15 - #6: Route climbing

54:34 - #7: Bouldering 4x4 Intervals

57:42 - #8: Campus board training

58:40 - #9: Running (in moderate doses)

1:01:21 - #10: Flexibility training (lower-body focus for hip turnout)

1:05:22 - Final thoughts....

PLEASE write a 5-star iTunes review of the T4C podcast, and consider sharing this podcast with a friend and on your social media. Thank you!

SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Save $10 on a PhysiVantage performance Nutrition purchase of $40+ with checkout code: 10DOLLARS. Used by a growing number of pro climbers and thousands of recreational climbers around the world. Give PhysiVantage a try, and feel the difference it makes in your climbing!

SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >>

Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing.

Music by Misty Murphy

Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.

Follow Eric on Facebook!

And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15

Feb 3, 2021

Chances are...your fingers are already strong enough to climb the next grade. In this podcast, Eric details five ways to increase your apparent finger strength on the rock...and climb one grade harder!

Whether you're an intermediate, advanced, or pro-level climber, you'll surely find a few of Eric's concepts and tips to be empowering...and just maybe provide you with the "secret" to breaking a plateau or sending your project.

SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Save $10 on a PhysiVantage Nutrition purchase of $40+ with checkout code: 10DOLLARS.

Podcast Rundown

6:09 - Gaining more finger strength without training your fingers! Huh? Listen and learn some secrets to becoming a more efficient and effective climber.

11:00 - Eric's comments about finger force testing.

15:30 - Five secrets to stronger fingers on the rock. Non-finger training that will make your fingers stronger for climbing!

16:12 - #1: Learn the importance of climbing economy...and why a weaker climber can sometimes outperform a stronger climber.

21:33 - #2: Training hip flexibility increases finger strength-endurance, especially on near-vertical boulders and routes.

31:30 - #3: Stronger shoulders make fingers stronger. Learn why.

38:08 - #4: Stronger wrist flexors and wrist extensors will improve your sloper and crimp grips, respectively.

45:40 - #5: Increasing core strength and core strength-endurance make small hand and foot holds "bigger" and more solid...and increase apparent finger strength and endurance. But to obtain this effect, you must train comprehensive core strength with a wide range of exercises.

58:12 - Summary and final tips to improve your climbing.

PLEASE write a 5-star iTunes review of the T4C podcast, and consider sharing this podcast with a friend and on your social media. Thank you!

SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Save $10 on a PhysiVantage performance Nutrition purchase of $40+ with checkout code: 10DOLLARS. Used by a growing number of pro climbers and thousands of recreational climbers around the world. Give PhysiVantage a try, and feel the difference it makes in your climbing!

SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >>

Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing.

Music by Misty Murphy

Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.

Follow Eric on Facebook!

And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15

Jan 5, 2021

The beginning of a new year is a great time to think critically about your current situation…and trajectory. What are your short-term goals...and long-term destination? How will you get there?

As you will soon discover, this short podcast transcends climbing performanceit’s about human performance!

What does it take to achieve extreme success? What’s the #1 thing holding most people back from reaching their big life goals? Eric describes his formula for making steady daily progress towards achieving important goals. You can apply this conceptual model to accelerate progress in any endeavor. So what are you waiting for? Listen. Apply. Achieve!

PLEASE write a 5-star iTunes review of the T4C podcast, and consider sharing this podcast with a friend and on your social media. Thank you!

SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Save 15% on PhysiVantage performance Nutrition. Used by a growing number of pro climbers and thousands of recreational climbers around the world. Give PhysiVantage a try, and feel the difference it makes in your climbing!

SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >>

Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing.

Music by Misty Murphy

Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.

Follow Eric on Facebook!

And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15

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