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Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

Training and performance podcasts by Eric Hörst, the internationally renowned author, climbing coach, researcher, inventor, and accomplished climber of more than 40 years. Founder of TrainingForClimbing.com and PhysiVāntage. With his unique combination of veteran climbing and coaching experience and knowledge of the latest climbing research, Eric presents practical, effective guidelines to climb harder, reduce injury risk, and maximize the experience of moving over stone. Eric is one of the world's most knowledgeable climbing coaches and his eight books (and many foreign translations) have sold more than 400,000 copies worldwide. His latest book release is the 3rd edition of Training For Climbing. Learn more at: http://www.trainingforclimbing.com
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Now displaying: August, 2022
Aug 11, 2022

This episode is a 75-minute training-for-climbing tour de force by two of the world's top trainers, Tom Randall (Lattice UK) and Eric Hörst (TrainingforClimbing.com). The fascinating format has Tom interviewing Eric on a variety of foundational topics, including finger strength testing and training, methods of endurance training, the pros/cons of System Wall and Campus Training...and the future of training for climbing. This is a must-listen episode for anyone passionate about training for the next grade!

RUNDOWN

0:40 - Intro to this epic conversation between Tom and Eric.

1:35 - Eric reflects on seminal conversations with top climbers and coaches, past and present.

2:30 - Eric's first appearance on the Lattice Training Podcast in Spring 2022.

3:23 - Podcast Sponsor message on Supercharged Collagen. Save 15% off full-priced PhysiVantage Nutrition with checkout code PODCAST15 >>

5:45 - Interview begins...

8:00 - Endurance Training...past and present.

15:00 - The value of a Treadwall for testing and training.

18:20 - Finger strength training past and present.

22:25 - Importance of personalized training programming.

24:20 - Finger force testing and performance databases.

30:00 - The many paths to harder climbing (besides finger training).

32:30 - Performance profiling and testing.

36:00 - Movement quality assessment.

37:40 - Udo Neumann movement videos.

40:00 - Longevity in climbing. Climbing hard into your 30s, 40s, and beyond!

41:40 - Discussion of key training tools for finger training and more.

43:20 - Importance of climbing outside more often!

44:10 - "Copy cat" training.

45:25 - Hangboard protocols...and "dead ends".

48:00 - Hang boarding to AVOID failure (local aerobic system training).

49:50 - Tom describes how many climbers underperform their strength testing results.

50:55 - The dilemma of weekend warriors -- more time spent training inside than climbing outside.

53:25 - Send Bros (Cameron & Jonathan Horst) need more climbing time, too!

55:00 - System Wall training pros/cons.

1:01:00 - Next level training with a System Wall and Treadwall.

1:04:10 - Eric comments on the advent of the Campus Board. RIP Wolfgang Gullich.

1:07:00 - Tom asks about the nutritional influence on training and climbing performance.

1:09:10 - Importance of getting nutrition right, especially among elite-level climbers.

1:10:25 - About launching PhysiVantage, the first complete line of nutritional products for climbers.

1:12:00 - European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV shop and BananaFingers.com

PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!

SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15

SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>

Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs

Music by Misty Murphy

Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.

Follow Eric on Facebook!

And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

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