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Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

Training and performance podcasts by Eric Hörst, the internationally renowned author, climbing coach, researcher, inventor, and accomplished climber of more than 40 years. Founder of TrainingForClimbing.com and PhysiVāntage. With his unique combination of veteran climbing and coaching experience and knowledge of the latest climbing research, Eric presents practical, effective guidelines to climb harder, reduce injury risk, and maximize the experience of moving over stone. Eric is one of the world's most knowledgeable climbing coaches and his eight books (and many foreign translations) have sold more than 400,000 copies worldwide. His latest book release is the 3rd edition of Training For Climbing. Learn more at: http://www.trainingforclimbing.com
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Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
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Now displaying: Category: mental training
Oct 25, 2017

If you occasionally struggle with the fear of falling, then this podcast is for you!

While the fear of falling is most acute among beginner and intermediate climbers, it's a fact that advanced climbers and the pros also experience a bit of falling fear from time to time. After all, fear is an important self-protective response—the goal, then, isn’t to eliminate fear, but to manage it…which is the focus of this podcast.

My Lithuanian friends, Dei and Ben, have created a series of excellent YouTube videos (called “Day in Nature“) with the common theme of exploring the fear of falling. I was happy to join Dei and Ben (and their YouTube channel viewers) for this online coaching session, in which I answer their fear-related questions and share a variety of mental training tips to better manage fear and advance their climbing ability. No matter if you're an indoor climber, boulderer, or sport climber, I trust you'll find some useful tips and techniques to address your unique vertical-world concerns and fearful experiences.

Ultimately, learning to expertly manage fear is a long-term endeavor—there are no quick fixes—and so I hope this hour-plus-long podcast will help kick-start your journey to becoming a more confident, in-control, and courageous climber!

Podcast Rundown:

1:07 - Introducing Jerry Moffatt's MASTERMIND!

2:04 - Eric's intro to coaching the fear of falling.

3:45 - Beginning discussion with Dei & Ben of "Day in Nature"

5:00 – The goal of controlling fear rather than letting fear control you!

10:00 - Legitimate fears vs. phantom fears.

11:30 - The importance of taking practice falls (in a very safe, controlled setting).

13:40 - How to combat fears of the rope getting cut...or a bolt pulling out.

18:45 - Developing the skill of managing fear is a long-term process....that takes effort over months & years.

19:30 - Why do some people conquer fear faster than others?

22:30 - A look inside Alex Honnold's brain (via MRI)...and his "quiet" amygdala.

27:23 - How to handle fear of runouts between bolts?

31:24 - Value of reading books on mental training (such as Warriors Way, Maximum Climbing, MasterMind).

37:00 - Mental training should be comprehensive...and not just focused on managing fear. This is a rich area with potential for huge breakthroughs in performance!

38:12 - Mental training literally changes your brain (neuroplasticity).

38:30 - Using breath-focused meditation as training (at home) and for performance (at the crag).

40:50 - For expertly skilled climbers, further improvement often comes down to mental training...and getting stronger!

41:15 - What about grabbing the rope (or quick draws) when falling?

43:10 - Tips for returning to climbing after an injurious fall.

48:45 - Why are children often less scared of falling than adults?

53:10 - What about fear when clipping the second bolt of a route?

56:23 - How to assess a fall…determining a "safe fall" vs. a dangerous fall situation?

59:55 - What about climbers who never fall (because they climb so far below their maximum ability)? How much harder might they be able to climb by becoming willing/able to fall?

1:03:50 - Who was the most fearful that I've ever coached or climbed with?

1:06:00 - The difference between Anxiety vs. Fear.

1:07:01 - The importance of "mete-cognition"...for improving your mental game and performance (in anything).

1:08:45 - Recognizing and breaking fear "triggers".

1:10:16 - Just as you train your muscles with exercises...it's essential to use mental training exercise to strengthen your mental muscle!

1:12:20 - My two favorite mental training exercises are....

1:14:44 - How to do effective visualization? (Hint: It must be more than just a mental rehearsal of sequence!)

1:16:30 - Closing comments by Dei & Ben.

1:17:30 - Eric wraps up podcasts...and asks YOU to share it with a few friends!

Music by Misty Murphy

 

Oct 4, 2016

In this episode we’ll examine two of the most common fears among climbers--the fear of falling and the fear of failure--and I’ll arm you with several strategies for managing, and perhaps even eliminating, these fears once and for all!

Music: Misty Murphy

Jun 27, 2016

You've spent the winter and spring training hard in the gym...yet for some reason your new physical prowess isn't translating into better performance outside. If this sounds familiar, then this podcast is for you! Climbing is, first and foremost, a mental and technical skill sport, so climbing your best demands that you refine your mental and movement skills, in addition to getting stronger. This podcast will detail 8 things you can do--both on and off the rock--to climb better this summer...and break through to the grade level!

Music by: Misty Murphy

Feb 7, 2016

In this podcast we’ll take a look at the most fundamental aspect of effective climbing: risk management. After all, if you get hurt—or worst—then all your time spent training and climbing is for naught. This is critically important and potentially empowering information, so please listen in!

Music by: Misty Murphy

Photo by: Eric McCallister

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