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Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

Training and performance podcasts by Eric Hörst, the internationally renowned author, climbing coach, researcher, inventor, and accomplished climber of more than 40 years. Founder of TrainingForClimbing.com and PhysiVāntage. With his unique combination of veteran climbing and coaching experience and knowledge of the latest climbing research, Eric presents practical, effective guidelines to climb harder, reduce injury risk, and maximize the experience of moving over stone. Eric is one of the world's most knowledgeable climbing coaches and his eight books (and many foreign translations) have sold more than 400,000 copies worldwide. His latest book release is the 3rd edition of Training For Climbing. Learn more at: http://www.trainingforclimbing.com
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Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
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Now displaying: November, 2019
Nov 20, 2019

If you're serious about training and climbing your best, then you must be serious about performance nutrition. The foods you consume play a central role in energy production, training adaptations, muscle recovery, connective tissue health, and your strength-to-weight ratio. Combined, these nutritional influences are nearly as significant as the influence of your training program--and, if you get both your training and nutrition right, then a powerful synergy will elevate your performance to a new level!

RUNDOWN

00:40 – Intro to performance nutrition. Why it's important.

4:16 - As a guiding principle, climbers should "eat and train" not "diet and exercise."

5:19 - A short story about an aspiring elite climber...

6:40 - One of my favorite sayings...and a powerful guiding principle: "To outperform the masses you must do things they don't do."

7:00 - Pro tip: Eschew group think. Live by your own light. Build your own optimal system to reach your goals.

9:10 - Performance nutrition must be personalized. Many factors are at play...so it will take some effect to get it right.

15:45 - Nutrition is not a black & white topic. There are few "never eat" foods--enjoying rich foods is one of life's great pleasures.  Moderation and discipline are critical, however.

18:00 - Beware of the flood of training and nutrition articles on the Internet (and social media posts). Some have great info, but many contain training and nutrition "fake news".

20:15 - Climbing is a strength-to-weight and power-to-weight ratio sport. Therefore, bodyweight is a critical factor and it should be optimized via smart training and nutrition. Caloric restriction may be valuable leading up to periods of performance climbing or competition.

24:15 - Your training and nutrition must be shaped to match your goals. The guidance of a veteran trainer and climbing-knowledgable nutritionist can be invaluable.

26:30 - Definition of "high-quality weight loss" -- this is the goal for elite climbers wanting to maximize performance.

27:30 - How to best create a slight caloric deficit to optimize body composition before competition or performance climbing.

28:50 - High-quality protein is essential for maintaining muscle mass, strength, and power during periods of hard training and/or caloric restriction. The protein requirement is 1.2 to 1.6 grams/kg of body weight per day. Supplementary protein, ideally a high-quality whey isolate, is often necessary to meet this goal while restricting calories.

30:30 - The importance of Leucine, especially in your post-exercise feeding.

31: 08 - Carbohydrate backloading as a powerful performance nutrition and recovery strategy.

34:00 - The value of post-exercise and bedtime whey protein isolate and/or micellar casein. Vegans should consider a pea protein supplement powder.

34:30 - Eric weights in on "fad diets"...low carb, keto, paleo, high carb, etc.

36:00 - The importance of adequate carbohydrates for power and strength-endurance athletes such as climbers.

38:00 - Eric's recommended macronutrient ratio...approximately 60% carbohydrates, 20% protein, and 20% fat.

39:23 - Eric's pyramid paradigm for healthy eating for peak performance. A balanced diet is the pyramid base, while sport-specific nutrition and supplements form the pyramid top.

41:54 - Regarding sports supplements--if you're eating right, then you may get added benefits from certain supplements.

43:30 - Eric briefly mentions the company he founded--PhysiVantage makes the first research-based supplements for climbers.

44:16 - What supplements might work for climbers?

44:30 - Post-workout/post-climbing protein can jump start and accelerate muscle and connective tissue recovery.

45:00 - BCAAs may have some value in a performance setting, but as a regular training aid there could be unintended consequences that may compromise muscle quality and performance in the long run.

47:00 - The importance of increasing muscle quality and muscle efficiency over the long term--this is the pathway to stronger more powerful muscles without gaining weight.

50:00 - What about creatine for climbers? Micro-doses may benefit, but creatine "loading" will likely hurt performance.

53:40 - Anti-oxidants (e.g. vitamin C, E, selenium) will limit the hormetic response to training and potentially reduce desired training adaptations in the long run.

56:45 - Supplements to "prime" the aerobic energy system and increase oxygen kinetics have great promise. Beetroot extract and citrulline malate will likely enhance climbing performance and recovery between bouts of high-intensity exercise.

1:01:00 - What about caffeine?

1:02:30 - Anaerobic lactic system buffers, beta alanine and sodium bicarbonate, have some potential benefits.

1:06:10 - Is a daily multivitamin helpful? What about minerals?

1:07:00 - A chunk of dark chocolate eaten each day has health and performance value. Seriously!

1:08:30 - The benefits of vitamin-C-enriched hydrolyzed collagen for climbers. Supporting connective tissue health is essential for hard-training for climbers.

1:09:32 - A few supplements that don't work...

1:12:00 - Conclusion and closing comments of nutrition for climbers

1:13:00 - Do you value this free podcast? Please write a review, and please share with a friend.

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Music by: Misty Murphy

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