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Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

Training and performance podcasts by Eric Hörst, the internationally renowned author, climbing coach, researcher, inventor, and accomplished climber of more than 40 years. Founder of TrainingForClimbing.com and PhysiVāntage. With his unique combination of veteran climbing and coaching experience and knowledge of the latest climbing research, Eric presents practical, effective guidelines to climb harder, reduce injury risk, and maximize the experience of moving over stone. Eric is one of the world's most knowledgeable climbing coaches and his eight books (and many foreign translations) have sold more than 400,000 copies worldwide. His latest book release is the 3rd edition of Training For Climbing. Learn more at: http://www.trainingforclimbing.com
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Now displaying: March, 2022
Mar 7, 2022

In this two-part series, Coach Hörst provides tips for an effective, holistic approach to steady, long-term improvement. No matter your ability level or weakness (physical, technical, or mental), this podcast will arm you with tips and techniques to put to work, beginning today. Take your game to the next level with tips from episodes 73 and 74! RUNDOWN

0:35 - Eric's Welcome!

2:40 - Recap of Episodes 71 & 72, and how that sets up this Episode 73.

5:00 - Sponsor ad read - please support our sponsors, visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15

7:45 - Intro to 40 Ways to Improve Your Training & Climbing

9:00 - The importance of making small course corrections...which can make massive changes in your climbing in the long-term.

9:50 - PART 1 - 10 Tips for Beginner-level Climbers (0 to 2 years of regular climbing)

10:30 - KISS

12:20 - The "3- or 4-day-per-week Rule"

14:00 - Importance of Bouldering and Route climbing

15:15 - Score your sessions by moves (or feet) climbed, not absolute difficult climbed.

16:55 - The 80/20 Split

18:10 - The value of some strength training exercises

21:20 - Don't overlook flexibility training

23:40 - "Read" (visualize) every boulder or route before you begin to climb

25:20 - Learn the difference between Good Pain and Bad Pain

27:20 - Consider your BMI....and what it means for your health and climbing experience

29:45 PART 2 - 10 Tips for Intermediate Climbers (~2 to 5 years experience)

30:45 - Don't get injured training...as you begin to engage in more advanced, targeted training techniques!

32:22 - Don't Specialized...in just one form of climbing

34:40 - Do some outdoor climbing!

36:24 - Stick with the "80/20 split"

38:00 - Commit to understanding and learning to manage your fears.

40:50 - Learn to fall trying (in safe situations)

42:07 - Strive to increase awareness of your changing physical and emotional states...and learn countermeasures to optimize these states for performance.

44:30 - Practice climbing more efficiently--reclimbing boulders and routes on a quest for higher economy and elite movement skills.

47:00 - Be okay with failure--it's part of the process of learning and advancing as a climber. (If you're not failing sometimes, you're not advancing.)

53:24 - Intro to the new "The Struggle" podcast with Ryan Devlin - Episode #1 featuring Emily Harrington

PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!

SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15

SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >>

Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs

Music by Misty Murphy

Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.

Follow Eric on Facebook!

And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

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