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Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

Training and performance podcasts by Eric Hörst, the internationally renowned author, climbing coach, researcher, inventor, and accomplished climber of more than 40 years. Founder of TrainingForClimbing.com and PhysiVāntage. With his unique combination of veteran climbing and coaching experience and knowledge of the latest climbing research, Eric presents practical, effective guidelines to climb harder, reduce injury risk, and maximize the experience of moving over stone. Eric is one of the world's most knowledgeable climbing coaches and his eight books (and many foreign translations) have sold more than 400,000 copies worldwide. His latest book release is the 3rd edition of Training For Climbing. Learn more at: http://www.trainingforclimbing.com
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Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
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Now displaying: July, 2021
Jul 27, 2021

This is Part 2 of Steven Dimmitt's (Nugget podcast) interview of Eric Hörst on a wide range of climbing training and performance topics. In this episode you will learn...how young guns Cameron Hörst (20) and Jonathan Hörst (18) train compared to their coach dad (age 57), tips for parenting/coaching youth climbers, what it takes to climb the next grade (whether it's 5.10 or 5.15), sloper training, the importance of protein, and more. There's a ton of great tips and sage advice in this episode. Lean in and listen up!

Podcast Rundown

00:12 - Intro and overview of Part 2 of Steven Dimmitt's interview with coach Eric Hörst

2:25 - How Cameron and Jonathan Horst train for elite-level climbing compared to the training of their coach father training for his master's climbing ascents.

4:05 - Advanced hangboard training protocol details.

6:30 - Importance of listening to your body, adjusting training, and route-specific training.

7:30 - Tendon "loading history" and effects of youth climbing on tendon core structure.

8:30 - The pros/cons of youth single-sport and multisport involvement.

16:05 - Tips for parents and coaches of youth climbers.

18:15 - Climbing benchmarks of the Hörst brothers (aka The Send Bros).

20:25 - Current status of the Hörst brothers climbing. Cameron (age 20) just climbed his fourth 5.14d and first 5.15a (after this interview was recorded) and Jonathan (age 18) send his second 5.14c in July.

23:35 - Eric's "old climber" dream goal: A free big wall...or sport 5.14a?

25:20 - How to "win" as a weekend warrior?

30:00 - What it takes to climb the next grade...

31:45 - Nature, nurture, and willpower!

33:55 - How to improve on big holds?

34:30 - Pinch training tips...

37:00 - Sloper training.

38:55 - Importance of training wrist flexion and extension.

41:40 - What's most exciting about training for climbing in 2021?

42:30 - Pros/cons of system wall training.

46:00 - The role of nutrition in training and performance.

48:30 - The importance of dietary protein...to support strength gains, connective tissue remodeling, muscle protein synthesis, and more.

50:10 - Overview of Eric's PhysiVantage product line...and the benefits for recreational and pro climbers alike. (Get a 15% discount off full-price nutrition with checkout code: NUGGET15)

52:45 - All about supplementing with hydrolyzed collagen powder--overview of the fascinating research...and the numerous benefits for hard-training climbers, if you time it correctly.

1:09:30 - The value of high-quality post-workout protein consumption...plant-based or whey isolate...it's a difference-maker

1:16:30 - Wrap up comments...and a few words about the podcast sponsor PhysiVantage Nutrition.

SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Save 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code PODCAST15 PhysiVantage is used by dozens of pro climbers and thousands of recreational climbers around the world. Give PhysiVantage a try, and feel the difference it makes in your climbing!

SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >>

Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing.

Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.

Follow Eric on Facebook!

And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15

Podcast Audio and Content Copyright 2021 Hörst Training, LLC - All Rights Reserved.

Jul 17, 2021

This information-packed episode features Steven Dimmitt of the Nugget podcast interviewing Coach Hörst on all things training. This wide-ranging Q & A covers many vital topics including: how to train for stronger tendons and ligaments, the secrets to developing a really strong core, the benefits of campus training versus hangboard training, personalized training program design, and much more! There's a gold mine of information in this episode....and Part 2 of this interview will serve up even more! Coming soon...

Podcast Rundown

00:12 - Intro to this "best of" the Nugget interview with coach Eric Hörst

2:56 - What core elements of training have passed the test of time?

6:23 - Current glut of training information can be overwhelming--what to do?

8:37 - Importance of re-inventing your training each year.

10:07 - Value of engaging an expert coach.

12:25 - What's the most central exercise/activity for climbers?

14:30 - You can improve technical, movement and mental skills for decades!

17:00 - You can improve at climbing for DECADES!

18:25 - You are likely already strong enough to climb the next grade!

19:56 - What should you look for in hiring a coach?

25:50 - New training concept: Sinew Training! Learn the importance of remodeling connective tissues. Visit T4C podcasts #33, #34, #36, and #39 for an in-depth study of this powerful topic.

30:00 - Learn how max finger hangs and campusing training have profoundly different effects on tendons and ligaments.

34:00 - Learn the difference between sinew training for tendon/ligament health versus training for peak power and performance.

35:10 - How to schedule these two types of training for optimal health and results.

36:30 - Learn training cycles and periodization. Linear versus non-linear.

44:40 - Importance of developing a truly personalized approach to training (the "snowflake principle").

46:00 - Identify your limiting constraint. For some strong climbers it's "end-range" strength.

50:15 - How designing an advance training program is like playing 3D chess. Why the best coaches see the big picture and coach the "person" not just the athlete.

51:00 - Don't fall into the trap of obsessing on one type of training or one modality.

54:25 - Why developing a stronger core is SO VERY important. (Hint: A stronger core equals stronger fingers!)

56:30 - Eric comments about Alex Megos' coaches Patrick & Dicki

59:00 - Learn about deadlifting for climbers...the value...and the potential pitfalls.

1:06:30 - The value of doing more bouldering and traversing with very small footholds.

1:11:10 - Key idea: A weak core overcharges your finger force...resulting in rapid fatigue on near-limit climbs.

1:14:10 - More on DUP training versus a 10-week (or more) training cycle.

1:16:30 - Wrap up comments...and a few words about the podcast sponsor PhysiVantage Nutrition.

Tune in to T4C podcast #64 for PART 2 of this Nugget Interview with coach Hörst!

SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Save 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code PODCAST15 PhyiVantage is used by dozens of pro climbers and thousands of recreational climbers around the world. Give PhysiVantage a try, and feel the difference it makes in your climbing!

SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >>

Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing.

Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.

Follow Eric on Facebook!

And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15

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