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Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

Training and performance podcasts by Eric Hörst, the internationally renowned author, climbing coach, researcher, inventor, and accomplished climber of more than 40 years. Founder of TrainingForClimbing.com and PhysiVāntage. With his unique combination of veteran climbing and coaching experience and knowledge of the latest climbing research, Eric presents practical, effective guidelines to climb harder, reduce injury risk, and maximize the experience of moving over stone. Eric is one of the world's most knowledgeable climbing coaches and his eight books (and many foreign translations) have sold more than 400,000 copies worldwide. His latest book release is the 3rd edition of Training For Climbing. Learn more at: http://www.trainingforclimbing.com
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Now displaying: December, 2020
Dec 21, 2020

What could be better than a one-hour Q & A with coach Hörst about all things training? 15 questions on a wide range of topics...and hopefully more than a few that will hit home with you. Enjoy!

Podcast Rundown

4:15 – Question: What advice do you have for returning to crimping after an A2 pulley injury?

7:35 – Question: What are your recommendations for incorporating some strength training in a my routine?

11:40 – Question: What do you think of post-workout cold-water immersion for reducing pain and accelerating recovery?

16:00 - Question: What can I do to prevent getting sowing-machine leg?

19:22 - Question: What are your thoughts on deadlifting for climbing?

25:25 - Question: What can I do to reduce chronic pain and stiffness in my neck muscles?

28:15 - Question: What vitamin supplements do you take?

34:30 - Question: What's the ideal length of break between doing two climbing workouts in a day?

36:20 - Question: My project involves a lot of stemming--what can I do to train specifically for better stemming?

38:20 - Question: What finger grip positions do you recommend for training?

42:06 - Question: What the best strategy for pushing into the next level when projecting?

46:48 - Question: What do you think of campus training for youth climbers?

49:09 - Question: Since I didn't start climbing until age 35, how long can I improve in strength and climbing ability?

51:15 - Question: Do you agree with the idea that most climbers are already strong enough to climb the next grade?

53:25 - Question: Is there a vegan version of collagen supplement?

55:15 - Question: When's the right time for a new climber to begin some hangboard training?

PLEASE write a 5-star iTunes review of the T4C podcast, and consider sharing this podcast with a friend and on your social media. Thank you!

SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Save 15% on PhysiVantage performance Nutrition. Used by a growing number of pro climbers and thousands of recreational climbers around the world. Give PhysiVantage a try, and feel the difference it makes in your climbing!

SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >>

Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing.

Music by Misty Murphy

Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.

Follow Eric on Facebook!

And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15

Dec 2, 2020

2020 has been a challenging year with a global pandemic, a COVID lockdown at home (or two), and limited climbing travel for many of us. We're now entering the holiday season, with COVID lingering, but hopefully, it will bring some opportunity to celebrate (in small COVID-safe groups?), reset our training, and renew our mindset and body. Is this a good time to take a month off from climbing? NO! There are several options for holiday season training, even if it's all at home. I'll present the benefits and drawbacks of each approach. Which is best for you? Listen in...you decide!

DEAR FRIENDS: PLEASE BE COVID SAFE THIS WINTER...A VACCINE IS NEAR!

0:15 - Introduction...lingering COVID, the approaching holidays, and your training for climbing!

2:30 - A brief message about the T4C podcast sponsor PhysiVantage.

3:45 - Winter is near...training season is here! What's the best approach to training in the holiday season? I will present 4 distinctly different approaches to training through the holidays.

5:30 - Training Approach #1: Taking a month or so off from training and climbing. Eric addresses the pros and cons of taking a few weeks (or more) off from training and climbing.

8:40 - Training Approach #2: Immediately adjust your training to deal with a current injury or tweak. Now is the time to resolve an injury with appropriate rehab and self-care.

13:25 - Elite level climber question: How would I train this winter to climb my best in the Spring season....versus training to climb at my highest level in a few years?

18:10 - Recap of Holiday Training Approaches #1 and #2.

19:20 - Training Approach #3: Continue with serious in-season training because this is your performance season...or you have a climbing trip scheduled in the next 4 to 8 weeks. In this case, it's important to train for a "peak" for your trip and not succumb to (or minimize the impacts of) holiday season...rich foods and "cheer").

22:22 - A brief tangent on the diet/nutrition and the "issues" that some athletes have with food. Developing a healthy relationship with food is important for optimal training, beneficial physical adaptations, and maximizing performance. Especially for hard, steep climbing, strength-to-weight ratio directly correlates to performance...so consuming the right foods in the right amounts is vital.

27:32 - Holiday Season Training Approach #4:  Strive for a balance between frequent training and occasional indulgences in holiday foods and drinks. You can enjoy the season without being self-destructive to your climbing potential for the early 2021 season. Learn how Eric will be doing it...and determine if it's the right approach for you!

35:35 - Warning: A couple of weeks (or more) of holiday gluttony can have a significant negative impact in terms of weight gain. While putting on a pound or two is no big deal, adding 5 to 10 pounds will hurt your climbing in early 2021...and it will likely require a month or more to lose.

38:13 - The bottom line: How seriously you take your diet and training should be proportional to how seriously you take your climbing!

39:20 - Effectiveness comes when you match your actions to your goals. Live intentionally!

39:50 - Eric's closing comments: In the end, performing optimally and experiencing maximally demands that you nuance your actions and explore the shades of gray...rather than living in a black and white world.

PLEASE write an iTunes review of the T4C podcast, and consider sharing this podcast with a friend and on your social media.

SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Save 15% on PhysiVantage performance Nutrition. Used by a growing number of pro climbers and thousands of recreational climbers around the world. Give PhysiVantage a try, and feel the difference it makes in your climbing!

SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >>

Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing.

Music by Misty Murphy

Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.

Follow Eric on Facebook!

And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15

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