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Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

Training and performance podcasts by Eric Hörst, the internationally renowned author, climbing coach, researcher, inventor, and accomplished climber of more than 40 years. Founder of TrainingForClimbing.com and PhysiVāntage. With his unique combination of veteran climbing and coaching experience and knowledge of the latest climbing research, Eric presents practical, effective guidelines to climb harder, reduce injury risk, and maximize the experience of moving over stone. Eric is one of the world's most knowledgeable climbing coaches and his eight books (and many foreign translations) have sold more than 400,000 copies worldwide. His latest book release is the 3rd edition of Training For Climbing. Learn more at: http://www.trainingforclimbing.com
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Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
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Now displaying: April, 2017
Apr 1, 2017

Podcast #11

Training: The Past, The Present, The Future

This episode is more of a free-form podcast rather than  single-topic focused, as in the previous podcasts. I hope you enjoy it!

00:15 - Introduction to Podcast #11

00:46 – The breakthrough climbing achievement of the year….Margo Hayes ascent of La Rambla, the first consensus 5.15a redpoint by a female.

3:05 – Similarities between Margo Hayes and Alex Megos – Smart training with a long-term perspective.

6:55 – Feature topic: Training for climbing….the past, the present, and the future.

9:25 – Comments on Eric’s 40th anniversary in climbing…and 30 years as a coach, researcher, and author. Insight into Eric’s sources of inspiration…and quest for innovation in training for climbing.  

11:10 - Training for climbing….The Past: John Gill – The Father of Training for Climbing. Did you know he climbed V9/5.13+ moves in the 1960s!

16:10 – Training for climbing….The Present: The training information glut of 2017. But can you distinguish the good from the bad (advice)?

19:45 – Training for climbing….The Future: I predict a revolution! New testing and training technologies, more effective training protocols and programming, and the path to 5.16a!

27:25 – Question & Answer: “Ask Eric”

27:38 – Question 1: How do I determine my optimal body weight…in the quest of gaining a higher relative peak finger force (strength-to-weight ratio)

28:00 – Question 2: What do you think of one-arm hangboard training…with the free hand gripping a helper sling?

37:10 – How to submit a training question to Eric

38:20 – Closing comments

Music: Misty Murphy

Photo: Bruce Wilson

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