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Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

Training and performance podcasts by Eric Hörst, the internationally renowned author, climbing coach, researcher, inventor, and accomplished climber of more than 40 years. Founder of TrainingForClimbing.com and PhysiVāntage. With his unique combination of veteran climbing and coaching experience and knowledge of the latest climbing research, Eric presents practical, effective guidelines to climb harder, reduce injury risk, and maximize the experience of moving over stone. Eric is one of the world's most knowledgeable climbing coaches and his eight books (and many foreign translations) have sold more than 400,000 copies worldwide. His latest book release is the 3rd edition of Training For Climbing. Learn more at: http://www.trainingforclimbing.com
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Now displaying: August, 2019
Aug 6, 2019

In this episode of Ask Coach Hörst...Eric answers 7 wide-ranging questions from listeners. Some of the topics covered are...energy system training for alactic power, climbing-specific aerobic energy system training, Tabata training on a hangboard, advice for a beginner wanting to hangboard train, the pros/cons of Ketogenic diet, accelerating healing of an A2 pulley injury. Listen in!

Podcast Rundown

4:57 - Question #1 - How important is a climbing-specific aerobic training block at the beginning of a training cycle?

9:42 - Question #2 - Can you provide me with tips on staying healthy and motivated...and supporting my longevity in climbing?

16:12 - Question #3 - How many exercises can I include in an alactic energy system training session for developing maximum strength and power?

22:30 - Question #4 - I've read about the Tabata training protocol and I'm wondering what you think of applying it to hangboard training...by alternating 20-second hangs with 10 seconds of rest?

27:50 - Question #5 - I'm new to climbing and I feel that my weak fingers are a limiting constraint. Do you agree with the common rule of "no hangboard training in the first year of learning to climb"?

32:44  - Question #6 - I've been on a ketogenic diet for the past 3 weeks, and I feel terrific! What's your opinion the ketogenic diet and what are the pros and cons for a climber?

42:05 - Question #7 - I recently injured (mild pain) both of my middle fingers on a tweaky move. I've been doing light stretching and very light exercise to help support healing--what other things can I do to accelerate the healing process?

NOTE: If you'd like to submit a question for the next, please leave it as a comment to the Ask Coach Horst post on my Twitter @Train4Climbing -- include your first name, location, climbing ability level, and years climbing.

Music by Misty Murphy

Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

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And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

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