In this fast-paced episode, Eric details 7 end-of-climbing-season mistakes that you don't want to make!
Becoming aware of common training mistakes, seasonal traps, and/or counterproductive behaviors that climbers commonly succumb to can save you a lot of time and energy, elude setbacks and unintended consequences, and perhaps even avoid injury. Launch into the New Year healthy, motivated, and with a plan for reaching your training and climbing goals!
RUNDOWN
00:43 - Intro to 7 End-of-Climbing-Season Mistakes You Don't Want to Make (by Dwight Schrute, kind of!)
01:40 - Learn a powerful decision-making mantra to help avoid gross errors in training, risk management, and more!
03:28 - Mistake #1: Not taking an inventory of the past year's successes (and not counting your blessings).
05:42 - Mistake #2: Not analyzing the causes of your climbing shortcomings and/or setbacks.
08:14 - Mistake #3: Ignoring your end-of-season aches and pains.
14:28 - A word from this podcast's sponsor, PhysiVantage Nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!
16:14 - Mistake #4: Not engaging in a brief "deload" period of reduced training intensity and/or frequency.
18:12 - Mistake #5: Taking a nearly total break from all training and climbing for many weeks or months.
21:45 - Mistake #6: Putting on a "Winter 10" (i.e. ~10 pounds of off-season weight gain).
25:20 - Mistake #7: Not setting a few compelling climbing goals for the new year...and not developing a training program and system for reaching those specific goals.
28:55 - Here are a few must-listen T4C episodes on developing training programs and a system for success:
Podcast #57 – A Simple System for Extreme Success!
Podcast #59: Back to Basics – Effective Training for Climbing
Podcast #70 – A System for Achieving Greatly in Climbing…and Beyond!
Podcasts #73 & #74 – 40 Ways to Improve Your Training and Climbing!
29:48 - Bonus Mistake to Avoid Making: Engaging in holiday "party tricks!"
31:00 - Closing comments and Eric's Best Wishes for the Holiday and New Year!
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SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15. European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV shop and BananaFingers.com
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Music by Misty Murphy
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
You have been waiting all week to get out to get outside and climb! You've been training hard and your stoke is high to top some great boulders and/or take the sharp end up a few killer routes. Now that it's "game day", what can you do nutritionally to support—and perhaps enhance—your performance?
This content-dense FLASH edition of the T4C podcast will serve up actionable steps you can take, including how much water your should drink, the types and amounts of foods to consume, and possible ergogenic supplements that might give you an extra edge when climbing at your limit.
RUNDOWN
0:25 - Intro to "FLASH edition" #2 of the Training For Climbing podcast
1:30 - TOPIC: Performance nutrition for a crag day or bouldering session.
2:50 - Part #1 - How much water should you drink? This depends on many things, including the temperature and humidity, the length and rigor of your session, and your hydration status at the start of your climbing day. Listen in for details.
6:16 - Part #2 - What foods...and how much should you consume? This will depend heavily on the length and intensity of your bouldering session or climbing day. Learn Eric's snack suggestions for sustaining energy throughout the day.
10:30 - Part #3 - What supplements, if any, might acutely enhance game-day performance? The list is short...but Eric reveals a few items that are proven to enhance strength and endurance among hard-working athletes.
16:36 - Wrap up and sponsor message.
Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15. European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV shop and BananaFingers.com
Did you enjoy this new FLASH edition format? If so, PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Music: FYYC! Remix of "It's Already for You" (The Police - aka. the best band ever)
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
Do you work or school full-time during the week, then on the weekends set off on a mission to climb your hardest? If so, then you've surely considered how to train most effectively during the workweek...to set yourself up for success on the rocks over the weekend. It is this situation that is the focus of this episode, in which I'll arm you with some strategies and tips for making the most of your weekday training. I'll also touch on some important non-training influences on your weekend climbing--arriving at the boulders or crag 100% ready to send is more than just a matter of physical preparation.
0:25 - Intro to the new "FLASH edition" of the Training For Climbing podcast
1:30 - TOPIC: Effective Weekday Training for Weekend Sending! (aka. Workweek training for the Weekend Warrior)
3:12 - Part #1 - The goals of weekday training....and how many days to climb/train? Weekday training should be designed to maintain energy system power, sharpen skills, and allow for enough rest to "peak" for weekend sending.
4:50 - Part #2 - What to do when you train? Limit serious weekday training/climbing to just two days (for most people that's two sessions, although for some elites it may be 2-a-day workouts on 2 days)....this could be Tuesday/Wednesday or Tuesday/Thursday. Which is right for you?
8:32 - Part #3 - The influence of non-climbing/non-training activities on your climbing performance. What you do when you're NOT climbing/training during the weekdays is massively important -- sleep, diet/nutrition, managing stress, and staying motivated to crush come the weekend are all vital factors.
11:00 - Wrap up and sponsor message.
Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15. European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV shop and BananaFingers.com
Did you enjoy this new FLASH edition format? If so, PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Music: FYYC! Remix of "It's Already for You" (The Police - aka. the best band ever)
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
In this episode, coach Hörst shares 13 little things that can make a BIG difference when it comes to sending your near limit—or, perhaps, beyond limit!—project boulder or route.
Quite often it's the tiniest of things that can make or break your ascent. Eric covers a lot of territories including the power of proper breathing, the best time of the day to send, the effects of food and drink on energy and focus, how to get the perfect warm-up, how long to rest between attempts, how to win the skin game, the importance of the shoes you wear, how your thinking can make or break a send go, and so much more.
RUNDOWN
3:40 - 13 Little Things That Make a BIG Difference When Limit Climbing
4:15 - 1. The first “little, big thing” is to breathe more intentionally. Learn how to do it...to save energy, accelerate recovery, and help maintain focus and confidence.
10:30 - 2. Climb during the optimal time of the day. Learn how to plan your send goes for your strongest (and the stickiest) time of day.
14:17 - 3. Eat & drink appropriately. Learn how much you should drink and eat for a short session--or a full day--at the boulders or crags.
20:00 - 4. Empty bladder and bowels beforehand. Learn how to deal with golf ball bladder...and lighten the load before your send go. Click here for information about the benefits of MAG-ATP supplement from PhysiVantage.
26:30 - 5. Get a perfect warm-up! Learn the 7 steps of doing a perfect pre-send warm-up. Also, listen to Podcast #67 for a comprehensive discussion of the physiology of getting properly warmed up for hard climbing.
SPONSOR MESSAGE: Less pump, more endurance -- Endure X! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15. European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV shop and BananaFingers.com
32:45 - 6. Don’t Take Any Wasted Any Goes! AKA make every go count! Don't start up the climb with any uncertainty in beta. If needed, take a practice go (with hangs) to sure-up your beta.
39:15 - 7. If needed, take a practice go (with hangs) to sure up your beta.
41:13 - 8. Rest appropriately between goes. How minutes (or hours) should you rest between boulder problem and sport climb attempts?
44:35 - 9. Rest optimally on the route. Climb fast and rest well! Know how to use optimally whatever rests the boulder or route offers you!
45:45 - 10. Win the skin game! Learn how to make your skin last longer...
50:45 - 11. Brush the most critical holds! This is critical for increasing friction on small, slopey holds. Brush liberally.
52:00 - 12. Make sure you’re wearing the right shoes for the boulder or route at hand. If you're not packing in two different pairs of shoes, you should consider it!
54:45 - 13. Believe in a positive outcome, but let go of the need to succeed. Accept that the send will happen when it's meant to happen. Enjoy climbing the piece of rock in front of you...and take it one move at a time.
58:15 - Bonus Tip: Have a great belayer you can trust…AND a stoked and supportive ground crew that knows when to yell encouragements at you…and when to shut up and let you take care of business.
1:00:10 - Do YOU have a favor send tip? Share your "little, big" send tip to Eric and perhaps he'll feature it on a future podcast. You can leave your tip on Eric's Twitter @Train4Climbing or on the Training for Climbing Instagram @Training4Climbing or T4C Facebook page.
PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!
SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15. European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV shop and BananaFingers.com
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Music by Misty Murphy
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
This episode is a 75-minute training-for-climbing tour de force by two of the world's top trainers, Tom Randall (Lattice UK) and Eric Hörst (TrainingforClimbing.com). The fascinating format has Tom interviewing Eric on a variety of foundational topics, including finger strength testing and training, methods of endurance training, the pros/cons of System Wall and Campus Training...and the future of training for climbing. This is a must-listen episode for anyone passionate about training for the next grade!
RUNDOWN
0:40 - Intro to this epic conversation between Tom and Eric.
1:35 - Eric reflects on seminal conversations with top climbers and coaches, past and present.
2:30 - Eric's first appearance on the Lattice Training Podcast in Spring 2022.
3:23 - Podcast Sponsor message on Supercharged Collagen. Save 15% off full-priced PhysiVantage Nutrition with checkout code PODCAST15 >>
5:45 - Interview begins...
8:00 - Endurance Training...past and present.
15:00 - The value of a Treadwall for testing and training.
18:20 - Finger strength training past and present.
22:25 - Importance of personalized training programming.
24:20 - Finger force testing and performance databases.
30:00 - The many paths to harder climbing (besides finger training).
32:30 - Performance profiling and testing.
36:00 - Movement quality assessment.
37:40 - Udo Neumann movement videos.
40:00 - Longevity in climbing. Climbing hard into your 30s, 40s, and beyond!
41:40 - Discussion of key training tools for finger training and more.
43:20 - Importance of climbing outside more often!
44:10 - "Copy cat" training.
45:25 - Hangboard protocols...and "dead ends".
48:00 - Hang boarding to AVOID failure (local aerobic system training).
49:50 - Tom describes how many climbers underperform their strength testing results.
50:55 - The dilemma of weekend warriors -- more time spent training inside than climbing outside.
53:25 - Send Bros (Cameron & Jonathan Horst) need more climbing time, too!
55:00 - System Wall training pros/cons.
1:01:00 - Next level training with a System Wall and Treadwall.
1:04:10 - Eric comments on the advent of the Campus Board. RIP Wolfgang Gullich.
1:07:00 - Tom asks about the nutritional influence on training and climbing performance.
1:09:10 - Importance of getting nutrition right, especially among elite-level climbers.
1:10:25 - About launching PhysiVantage, the first complete line of nutritional products for climbers.
1:12:00 - European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV shop and BananaFingers.com
PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!
SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Music by Misty Murphy
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
Fast-paced and content-rich, this episode features Coach Horst’s analysis of pro climber tactics and strategies as featured on The Struggle Climbing Show #14. Eric discusses vital tactics used by pros including Emily Harrington, Alex Megos, Jordan Cannon, Alex Honnold, Kevin Jorgeson, Justin Salas, and more!
This is the third-in-a-series of podcasts on things you can do to climb harder at the boulders and crags this summer…when during this performance season, it’s really the mental, technical, and tactical skills that matter most. Listen, learn, apply, be inspired....and then go send your project!
RUNDOWN
0:40 - Intro to this episode on climbing tactics
2:00 - Eric remarks about Ryan Devlin’s new podcast, The Struggle Climbing Show.
3:08 – My analysis episode of The Struggle on “Tactics of the Pros”.
3:40 – Backstory on my enduring interest in climbing…and training for climbing!
6:50 – My personal struggles…
10:00 – Generally, some of the most vital tactics of the pros involve strategies to acquire higher efficiency in their climbing.
11:25 – Using “reframing” as a mental tactic to overcome their struggles. Mental toughness is a superpower of these pro climbers.
13:00 – Developing “mental agility” is central to the goal pursuit of top pros.
15:20 – Recreational climbers share many of the same struggles as the pros!
16:26 – Analysis of Emily Harrington’s comments on free climbing El Capitan’s Golden Gate. Efficiency is everything! (Well, almost.)
19:00 – Learn one way to train climbing efficiency at the gym…
21:10 – Pursue efficiency (and recovery!) when climbing outdoors!
23:15 – Analysis of Kevin Jorgenson’s epic struggle—and win!—on the crux pitch of Dawn Wall.
24:40 – Problem solving tactics that we can apply to our climbing…
30:20 – Sometimes it takes a one-off novel tactic to send! (Emily Harrington adapting to the Monster Offwidth!)
32:00 – More gym training tactics for boulderers…
36:00 – The importance of taking breaks from project boulders/routes…to experience more “wins” and to remember the joy of climbing successes!
37:00 – View difficult days—the struggle—as both part of the process…and a “tuition” of sorts paid to become a better climber.
37:50 – Alex Megos projecting process often includes a route-specific training block. Perhaps, so should yours!
40:55 – Eric’s comments on the Alex Honnold interview…and his different approaches to sport climbing and trad (or solo) climbing.
42:35 – When it’s safe…become fully unbridled and climb until you fall…or send!
44:40 – Learning climbing tactics comes with experience--be patient and frequently challenge yourself with diverse climbing experiences, and you will become a master climber!
48:00 – Some of the common traits/strategies of the pros…
48:38 – 1. They have struggles—more than you may think!
49:35 – 2. Mental agility. Make a game out of problem solving and the process of sending.
50:30 – 3. Trust the process. Learn every day, act with intention, and believe in the end game!
51:20 – 4. Route-specific training…especially for long-haul projects.
52:00 – 5. Build a sport team…and remember to pay it back (or pay it forward)!
54:20 – Final comments about Eric’s multi-decade journey to have an impact on climbers around the world! PhysiVantage Nutrition for climbers is the capstone of Eric’s climbing career. Save 15% off full-priced PhysiVantage Nutrition with checkout code PODCAST15. here >>
58:20 – Wrap-up of this T4C podcast.
PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!
SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Music by Misty Murphy
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
Your training is done. You've arrived at the boulders or crags. You're ready to begin work on a project...or perhaps you hope to send your ongoing project. It's at these times that your mindset matters most!
In this episode, Coach Hörst provides insights into how you can foster an optimal mental state to begin work on a new project...or send an ongoing project boulder, sport climbing, or big wall. The optimal mindset is highly distinct and dependent on your goal du jour.
You'll learn how to quiet your mind with meditation and support your projecting and sending with self-talk. This is powerful information...so lean into this podcast and find some clues for taking your performance to the next level!
RUNDOWN
0:15 - Intro to mental training and mindset optimization for climbing.
2:20 - Brief recall of Podcast #75 on Self-Awareness -- an essential first step to taking control of your mindset.
5:06 - Controlling your thoughts -- harder than you think.
6:14 - Who controls your thinking?
8:46 - Developing a powerful mindset for climbing is a decades-long journey -- begin today!
10:00 - "To outperform the masses, you must do things they don't do!"
11:00 - PART 1 - Your thoughts are powerful!
14:00 - Quiet your mind with meditation.
15:50 - Experience John Gill's "moving meditation."
17:00 - Dealing with racing thoughts.
18:18 - How to meditate. Getting good at it takes practice...ideally daily!
*** Message about our Sponsor, PhysiVantage Nutrition, the leader in climbing-specific nutrition.
Enhance endurance and recovery between efforts with ENDURE X!
Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 ***
25:50 - PART 2 - How to build an optimal mindest for projecting and performance.
28:00 - Keep the valence of your self-talk POSITIVE!
29:04 - Be quick to reframe failed attempts or setbacks.
29:45 - "No Big Deal Honnold"! Learn about beginner- and elite-level reframing.
31:13 - WARNING: You must embrace the reality of a dire situation!
32:42 - Summary of self-talk techniques - The 4 keys to effective self-talk.
34:05 - Details on effective Self-Talk for Projecting vs. Redpointing
35:28 - Self-Talk techniques for Projecting. Learning is the goal...NOT sending!
41:30 - Ask yourself lots of questions.
46:35 - Mention of The Struggle Podcast -- Listen to 10 pro climber interviews!
46:48 - Developing the Optimal Mindset for Redpointing Your Project!
49:45 - Pre-climb self-talk
52:25 - Self-talk while you climb
55:14 - Mid-route rest self-talking strategy
57:35 - Thoughts to quash with positive self-talk
59:18 - Have a sense of humor in your self-talk
1:01:50 - Summary of 9 common climbing examples of how to reframe dis-empowering thoughts with positive self-talk
1:09:50 - Final tips and comments
PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or elsewhere....and SHARE this podcast with a friend!
*** Support our sponsor! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 ***
View a list of pro climbers who use PhysiVantage to support their training and climbing >>
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Music by Misty Murphy
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
Self-awareness is the ability to monitor your internal climate, comprising your thoughts, physical sensations, and emotions, as well as the quality of your actions in the gym, at the crag, and in pursuing your life goals. Improving performance in anything demands that you develop higher awareness in each of these areas. Only this way can you improve your efficacy, make beneficial course corrections, and elevate your performance.
In this podcast, Coach Horst details six areas to strive for increased self-awareness in order to pursue excellence in climbing...and beyond.
RUNDOWN
0:40 - Intro to leveling up your climbing in-season.
3:50 - It's the mind that matters most when it's "send day" for you at the boulders, crag, or in competition.
4:55 - Overview of self-awareness...and its importance in elevating performance.
SIX AREAS TO INCREASE YOUR SELF-AWARENESS
11:53 - #1 is Self-Awareness of Your Thoughts
15:55 - Four techniques to exercise your self-awareness. Learn more about self-awareness and mental training for higher climbing performance in the book Maximum Climbing >>
18:00 - #2 is Self-Awareness of Body & Emotions
21:10 - #3 is Self-Awareness Your Strengths & Weaknesses
22:18 - Exercise: Click here to view the episode webpage with the PDF download of a brief self-assessment to aid your self-awareness of climbing strengths/weaknesses >>
*** Message about our Sponsor, PhysiVantage Nutrition, the leader in climbing-specific nutrition. Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 ***
24:36 - #4 is Self-Awareness of your Actions and Results
27:40 - Link to the previous podcast on Proprioception >>
31:00 - #5 is Self-Awareness of your Self-Image
34:!5 - Learn how to reshape your self-image with techniques detailed in Chapter 11 of Training for Climbing. Purchase a copy here >>
34:30 - #6 is Self-Awareness of Your Values.
35:20 - Click here to view episode webpage with a PDF dowload to rank your values here >>
37:52 - Summary of tips and strategies to improve your self-awareness and elevate your performance.
40:50 - Final thoughts
*** Support our sponsor! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 ***
View a list of pro climbers who use PhysiVantage to support their training and climbing >>
PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or elsewhere....and SHARE this podcast with a friend!
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Music by Misty Murphy
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
In this Part 2 in the series, 40 Ways to Improve Your Training and Climbing, Coach Hörst provides 20 tips for advanced and elite-level climbers. Discover how to employ a more nuanced and holistic approach to training and performance -- essential for eeking out further gains for high-level climbers with many years of experience.
RUNDOWN
0:30 - Eric's Welcome!
4:04 - Intro to Advanced Climber Tips
6:06 - #1. Strive for a greater nuance of actions taken on and off the rock.
8:02 - #2. Become a true master of rock -- seek to elevate weaknesses...physical, mental, technical.
10:15 - #3. Re-evaluate (and switch up) your finger training.
13:30 - #4. MORE CORE! Learn what to do more/less of.
17:02 - #5. Seek to build a more robust, balanced, and injury-resistant physique.
19:40 - #6. Consider an occasional period of specialization.
23:00 - #7. Create a "seasonality" of your training/climbing system.
25:20 - #8. Employ brief periods of "overreach" training followed by a shorter spell of deload.
28:40 - #9. Clean up your diet and strive to fill in any nutrient shortcomings -- adequate protein consumption is important, but also be sure you're getting the necessary minerals to support muscle function (electrolytes and, in particular, magnesium). Learn how Magnesium supports ATP production here >>
32:30 - #10. Always have fun! Climbing is NOT your job....yet!
34:15 - Intro to Elite-Level Training and Performance
36:00 - #1. Develop a deep, long-term relationship with a coach...or seek out a veteran pro climber to be your mentor.
38:40 - #2. Attack lingering weaknesses...physical, mental, technical.
39:30 - Pro Tip...on the importance of training for a lower resting heart rate
41:40 - #3. Build a stronger cardiovascular system to power longer days of training/climbing, and to speed recovery between exercises, climbs, and workouts.
44:10 - #4. Engage in year-round climbing-specific training -- at least one session per week!
49:02 - #5. Commit to comprehensive core training -- high-level athletic achievement demands exceptional core strength and strength-endurance.
50:12 - #6. Design occasional project-specific training exercises and sessions.
52:38 - #7. Occasionally engage in outdoor climbing styles that are outside your wheelhouse.
54:20 - #8. Embark on a relentless journey to achieve higher efficiency in even the smallest aspects of climbing performance.
58:10 - #9. Be willing to sacrifice greatly. Learn more in this podcast "The 8 Superpowers of the Very Best Climbers" >>
1:01:45 - #10. Elevate your character, and seek a higher level of spiritual awareness and engagement with your surroundings. Believe in your mission!
1:06:20 - Summary comments.
1:07:00 - Support our sponsors, visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15
View a list of pro climbers who use PhysiVantage to support their training and climbing >>
PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or elsewhere....and SHARE this podcast with a friend!
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Music by Misty Murphy
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
In this two-part series, Coach Hörst provides tips for an effective, holistic approach to steady, long-term improvement. No matter your ability level or weakness (physical, technical, or mental), this podcast will arm you with tips and techniques to put to work, beginning today. Take your game to the next level with tips from episodes 73 and 74! RUNDOWN
0:35 - Eric's Welcome!
2:40 - Recap of Episodes 71 & 72, and how that sets up this Episode 73.
5:00 - Sponsor ad read - please support our sponsors, visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15
7:45 - Intro to 40 Ways to Improve Your Training & Climbing
9:00 - The importance of making small course corrections...which can make massive changes in your climbing in the long-term.
9:50 - PART 1 - 10 Tips for Beginner-level Climbers (0 to 2 years of regular climbing)
10:30 - KISS
12:20 - The "3- or 4-day-per-week Rule"
14:00 - Importance of Bouldering and Route climbing
15:15 - Score your sessions by moves (or feet) climbed, not absolute difficult climbed.
16:55 - The 80/20 Split
18:10 - The value of some strength training exercises
21:20 - Don't overlook flexibility training
23:40 - "Read" (visualize) every boulder or route before you begin to climb
25:20 - Learn the difference between Good Pain and Bad Pain
27:20 - Consider your BMI....and what it means for your health and climbing experience
29:45 PART 2 - 10 Tips for Intermediate Climbers (~2 to 5 years experience)
30:45 - Don't get injured training...as you begin to engage in more advanced, targeted training techniques!
32:22 - Don't Specialized...in just one form of climbing
34:40 - Do some outdoor climbing!
36:24 - Stick with the "80/20 split"
38:00 - Commit to understanding and learning to manage your fears.
40:50 - Learn to fall trying (in safe situations)
42:07 - Strive to increase awareness of your changing physical and emotional states...and learn countermeasures to optimize these states for performance.
44:30 - Practice climbing more efficiently--reclimbing boulders and routes on a quest for higher economy and elite movement skills.
47:00 - Be okay with failure--it's part of the process of learning and advancing as a climber. (If you're not failing sometimes, you're not advancing.)
53:24 - Intro to the new "The Struggle" podcast with Ryan Devlin - Episode #1 featuring Emily Harrington
PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!
SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Music by Misty Murphy
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
In this PART 2, hear Eric's training advice for two elite/pro-level climbers.
For each of the climbers, Eric provides a Climber Overview, Impressions, Training Recommendations to achieve the next level, and a Personalized Program Summary.
In PART 1 (podcast #71) and this episode combined, Eric coaches four climbers that cover the full spectrum of ability from first-year beginner to full-time professional climber. Chances are, you'll be able to relate to one of these climbers and benefit from Eric's recommendations. Or perhaps, you're at a place in the climbing journey that's midway between two of these climbers...and you'll be able to glean actionable tips from a couple of these consults.
RUNDOWN
0:35 - Eric's Welcome!
Climber #3 - Twenty-something "Elite Climber"
12:28 - Climber Overview
14:28 - Eric's Impressions
18:18 - Training Recommendations.
30:50 - Program Summary
Climber #4 - "Professional Climber" with 20+ years experience
24:20 - Climber Overview
26:02- Eric's Impressions
30:00 - Training Recommendations
30:44 - Strength/Power Training Advice
42:08 - Power-Endurance Training Advice
Listen to Eric's Energy System Podcasts #21 - #28 Listen to the first in the 5-part series here >>
58:50 - Program Summary
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SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15
PhysiVantage is now available in Europe from the EPIC-TV Shop!
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Music by Misty Murphy
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
Gain clues to improving the effectiveness of your training-for-climbing system from this fascinating two-part podcast!
Listen to Eric's personalized training advice as given to four climbers of widely varying ability. For each of the climbers, Eric provides a Climber Overview, his Impressions, Training Recommendations to achieve the next level, and a Personalized Program Summary.
The four climbers Eric coaches here cover the full spectrum of ability from first-year beginner to full-time professional climber. Chances are, that you'll be able to relate to one of these climbers and benefit from Eric's recommendations. Or perhaps, your place in the climbing journey is midway between two of these climbers...and you'll be able to glean actionable tips from a couple of these consults.
RUNDOWN
0:35 - Eric's Welcome!
2:00 - Introduction to Training Case Studies, and the value of a personalized training program.
5:20 - Horst Training backstory.
Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15
Announcing PhysiVantage now available in Europe via the EPIC-TV Shop!
9:25 - Overview of the 4 climbing training case studies coming in this episode (and next week's episode).
Climber #1 - "Enthusiastic Beginner" with 1 year of climbing experience.
12:28 - Climber Overview
14:28 - Eric's Impressions
18:18 - Training Recommendations.
30:50 - Program Summary
Climber #2 - "Strong, Experience Intermediate" with 5 years of experience.
31:35 - Climber Overview
34:20 - Eric's Impressions
38:05 - Training Recommendations.
49:50 - Program Summary
PART 2 will be released Monday February 14th!
PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!
SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Music by Misty Murphy
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
In this empowering New Year's podcast, Eric details effective strategies for uncommon success in climbing and any other high-value life activity or mission. Learn 3 essential steps for departing onto a road less traveled--a journey defined by intentional daily action that yields rapid progress, while avoiding common "black holes" that can consume time, energy, and focus...and rob you of your future greatness.
SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15
RUNDOWN
0:30 - Introduction -- Happy New Year! Let's make 2022 a great one!
1:00 - Why most people fail with their New Year's Resolutions and goals.
2:40 - My unpublished book manuscript "Mental Wings" -- about how all performance is brain-based...and begins with the quality of your thoughts.
3:50 - My most powerful published book is "Maximum Climbing". Available from Amazon.com and PhysiVantage.com
5:00 - I'm passionate about inspiring you...and helping you become the best climber you can be...and to see you live your dream life!
6:30 - What are the biggest factors...and limiting constraints on your progress in climbing (and other life endeavors)?
7:50 - Your THOUGHTS are EVERYTHING! Who and what controls your thoughts minute by minute?
10:45 - Exercise: List 5 or 10 things you would attempt to do if you were assured you could not fail?
11:25 - Exercise: Create a list of things you fear...bad habits...and other things that are holding you back...tethering you to living in a state of status quo.
12:30 - STEP #1: Change is a MUST! All improvement in climbing (or life) begins with a decision that change and improvement is a MUST!
13:20 - Creating leverage for making the (painful) changes that are essential for leveling your situation.
16:00 - The "Feedforward" Exercise...for identifying a meaningful step to take TODAY to advance you toward your goals.
18:30 - Mental Wings principle: "To outperform the masses you must do things they don't do."
24:10 - The power of becoming a "practical non-conformist".
29:30 - Step #2: Set compelling goals.
31:00 - 6 steps for effective goal setting...and achievement!
34:30 - Introducing PhysiVantage Europe! We are proud to partner with the EPIC-TV shop to bring performance nutrition to European climbers.
36:15 - Step #3: Make Every Day Count
38:00 - Enjoy this moment--every moment!--because this moment is a piece of your life that you'll never get back.
39:20 - Do you ever feel like there's not enough time in the day?
42:35 - What are your time black holes?
45:00 - Exercise: Track your time use (from waking up) for at least 3 days. Be accurate in documenting your "time-wasting" activities?
48:00 - The importance of developing a personal time-management system. You must not just let your day unfold without intention...and a schedule for taking some meaningful action towards your goals.
52:10 - Concluding thoughts...and wishes for your grand success in the New Year!
PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!
SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Music by Misty Murphy
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing