In this episode, Eric welcomes you into the Training Café...which is his live coaching video stream broadcast every other Monday. So in this podcast, you'll hear Eric's TC broadcast which includes in-depth coaching on effective projecting...and reveals the "secret" to sending! Eric also answers a slew of viewer questions on training, injury, nutrition, and more.
You can participate in future Training Café livestreams--and submit a training question to Eric!--by tuning into this video simulcast on the Training For Climbing Facebook and T4C YouTube channels...typically broadcast at Noon Eastern Time (900 Pacific & 1600 GMT) on every other Monday.
1:15 - Intro to episode #53...and what Training Cafe is all about.
7:20 - Beginning of Training Cafe....with our virtual toast in the spirit of climbing!
7:35 - SHOUT OUT to Drew Ruana, perhaps the world's top boulderer this year, for sending his 10th V15 or harder boulder! Three of these were V16 ascents--watch the send videos here.
9:38 - Text message from Drew about keeping his fingers and skin healthy. Learn Drew's secret here.
12:00 - MAIN TOPIC: Effective Projecting...and Trusting the Process.
13:15 - The 6 steps/phases of effective projecting...
14:00 - Step 1: Picking the right project for you in the context of your current situation. Do you want/need to send it quickly?
15:15 - What type of project routes will make you a better climber?
16:40 - Step 2: Chuck down the route or boulder problem into 2 to 5 logical parts.
17:00 - Example: My project route "Warlords" at Mt. Charleston...and how I approached this route.
21:23 - Step 3: Work the route bolt to bolt to size up the sequences...then get to work on the crux chunk.
23:58 - Step 4: Identify the FEELING of doing the hardest moves the right way. CRITICAL!
24:30 - Learn the SECRET to succeeding on the crux sequence...
27:47 -Step 5: Begin linking chunks...from the crux chunk to the top, before beginning redpoint attempts from the ground.
29:06 - Step 6: Begin redpoint attempts from the ground.<
30:00 - The "surprise send" phenomenon!
31:10 - Trust the process and let the send happen organically.
32:17 - What to do if your project becomes stressful...due to lack of progress over several days of work?
33:20 - Learn about my "10-4 Rule" of projecting...
34:00 - YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED!
34:28 - Question: What time of day does your body most synthesis collagen...in tendons and ligaments? When to train/rehab tendons....and consume collagen to support the process?
36:20 -The value of doing 2 or 3 shorter workouts per day rather than 1 long session.
38:00 - Learn about the tendon training process cycle here.
39:40 - How best to engage in ARC training for climbing-specific endurance?/p>
43:20 - How to train when I don't have access to a climbing gym?
45:00 - How much rest should I take between dedicated training blocks?
47:47 - Learn the benefits of a DELOAD week!
48:40 - Is there value in using fascial release tools?
51:00 - Comments about overuse injuries in climbers...
52:23 - What are some off-the-wall exercises and stretching that I can do, especially on rest days?
54:30 - When will PhysiVantage be available in Europe?
PLEASE write an iTunes review of the T4C podcast, and consider sharing this podcast with a friend and on your social media.
SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Save 15% on PhysiVantage performance Nutrition. Used by a growing number of pro climbers and thousands of recreational climbers around the world. Give PhysiVantage a try, and feel the difference it makes in your climbing!
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >>
Music by Misty Murphy
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15
In terms of physical attributes, increasing relative peak finger force is central to taking your climbing to the next level—think of this as the finger force you can apply to a rock hold in relation to the body mass the fingers must support. Improving this finger strength-to-weight ratio is possible by increasing the numerator (greater finger strength) and decreasing the denominator (lowering body mass).
While there are many different fingerboard training methods/protocols/programs (some good, some bad) in the public domain, this podcasts will present four evidence-based protocols that work. Experienced climbers, with no recent history of injury to the fingers/elbows/shoulders, can employ one of these maximum-grip-strength protocols on a twice-a-week basis as supplement to time spent climbing. Aggregate number of climbing and finger training days per week must not exceed four—resting the fingers a minimum of three days per week is essential for neuromuscular recovery and finger tendon remodeling. Break this rule and you’ll likely end up “broken”….in one way or another.
1:14 - Review of 5 reasons why stronger fingers are central to taking your climbing to the next level
4:24 - Intro to maximum finger strength training on a hangboard
4:50 - Importance of "Relative Peak Finger Force"
10:10 - 3 Hangboard training modalities
13:33 - Training protocol 1: "Minimum Edge"
19:14 - Training protocol 2: "Maximum Weight 10-second Hangs"
25:20 - Training protocol 3: "7-53 Weight Hangs"
32:00 - Training protocol 4: "7/3 Repeaters"
41:00 - How to fingerboard with good technique...to protect & strengthen your shoulders.
45:05 - Hangboard training program design - How to integrate your with your other workouts and performance climbing.
53:00 - Closing comments
Music: Misty Murphy
Download all the monthly training podcasts for free by subscribing to the "Eric Horst's Training for Climbing" podcast on iTunes. Please leave a review on iTunes!