This episode is a 75-minute training-for-climbing tour de force by two of the world's top trainers, Tom Randall (Lattice UK) and Eric Hörst (TrainingforClimbing.com). The fascinating format has Tom interviewing Eric on a variety of foundational topics, including finger strength testing and training, methods of endurance training, the pros/cons of System Wall and Campus Training...and the future of training for climbing. This is a must-listen episode for anyone passionate about training for the next grade!
RUNDOWN
0:40 - Intro to this epic conversation between Tom and Eric.
1:35 - Eric reflects on seminal conversations with top climbers and coaches, past and present.
2:30 - Eric's first appearance on the Lattice Training Podcast in Spring 2022.
3:23 - Podcast Sponsor message on Supercharged Collagen. Save 15% off full-priced PhysiVantage Nutrition with checkout code PODCAST15 >>
5:45 - Interview begins...
8:00 - Endurance Training...past and present.
15:00 - The value of a Treadwall for testing and training.
18:20 - Finger strength training past and present.
22:25 - Importance of personalized training programming.
24:20 - Finger force testing and performance databases.
30:00 - The many paths to harder climbing (besides finger training).
32:30 - Performance profiling and testing.
36:00 - Movement quality assessment.
37:40 - Udo Neumann movement videos.
40:00 - Longevity in climbing. Climbing hard into your 30s, 40s, and beyond!
41:40 - Discussion of key training tools for finger training and more.
43:20 - Importance of climbing outside more often!
44:10 - "Copy cat" training.
45:25 - Hangboard protocols...and "dead ends".
48:00 - Hang boarding to AVOID failure (local aerobic system training).
49:50 - Tom describes how many climbers underperform their strength testing results.
50:55 - The dilemma of weekend warriors -- more time spent training inside than climbing outside.
53:25 - Send Bros (Cameron & Jonathan Horst) need more climbing time, too!
55:00 - System Wall training pros/cons.
1:01:00 - Next level training with a System Wall and Treadwall.
1:04:10 - Eric comments on the advent of the Campus Board. RIP Wolfgang Gullich.
1:07:00 - Tom asks about the nutritional influence on training and climbing performance.
1:09:10 - Importance of getting nutrition right, especially among elite-level climbers.
1:10:25 - About launching PhysiVantage, the first complete line of nutritional products for climbers.
1:12:00 - European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV shop and BananaFingers.com
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Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Music by Misty Murphy
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing