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Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

Training and performance podcasts by Eric Hörst, the internationally renowned author, climbing coach, researcher, inventor, and accomplished climber of more than 40 years. Founder of TrainingForClimbing.com and PhysiVāntage. With his unique combination of veteran climbing and coaching experience and knowledge of the latest climbing research, Eric presents practical, effective guidelines to climb harder, reduce injury risk, and maximize the experience of moving over stone. Eric is one of the world's most knowledgeable climbing coaches and his eight books (and many foreign translations) have sold more than 400,000 copies worldwide. His latest book release is the 3rd edition of Training For Climbing. Learn more at: http://www.trainingforclimbing.com
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Now displaying: Page 1
Jun 1, 2018

Welcome to the second round of "Ask Coach Hörst"...where I answer 10 listener questions. This episode covers vast terrain from fingerboard training to climbing nutrition to youth training to elbow tendonosis and more! Each question & answer runs about 5 minutes.

1:12 - Question #1 - When fingerboard training with weighted hangs...what's the weight-added difference when doing 10" x 1 max-weight hangs compared with doing the 7"/53" x 3 protocol?

5:17 - Question #2 - Is training individual fingers by suspending a light  free weight from a sling a useful technique?

10:40 - Question #3 - What days should I do supplemental training if climbing four days per week (combined outside and indoors)?

14:47 - Question #4 - Belaying and rehab advice for recovering for a climber returning from a broken wrist?

17:37 - Question #5 - Training recommendations for a 50-something climber with extensive background in weight lifting and running?

26:30 - Question #6 - Advice on dealing with...and hopefully recovering from medial elbow tendinopathy?

31:00 - Question #7 - My anaerobic endurance (power output) drops sharply at 40 to 45 seconds into hard, sustained climbing--how can I train to improve my anaerobic capacity?

37:51 - Question #8 - Can you recommend some pre-workout foods and give advice on what to eat at the crags? Also, how much protein should I eat each day?

44:20 - Question #9 - Mother asks Eric's training advice for her 12-year-old daughter...a nationally-ranked boulderer. What's the best training approach?

49:35 - Question #10 - How to organize training when you have a hangboard at home, but your access to a training/bouldering wall is at a gym without a hangboard?

52:10 - Wrap up...How YOU can submit a question for the next episode of "Ask Coach Horst". Visit my Twitter @Train4Climbing and leave a comment to the pinned "Ask Coach Horst" podcast.

NOTE: I'll record the next episode of Ask Coach Horst in late July for release in early August. If you'd like to submit a question for the next, please leave it as a comment to the Ask Coach Horst post on my Twitter @Train4Climbing -- include your first name, location, and years climbing.

Music by Misty Murphy

Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.

Follow Eric on Facebook!

And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

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